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Thread: sr24vvl HELP/...FIXED

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Posts: 21-30 of 38
2011-03-31 23:43:13
Originally Posted by Autech
Go straight to the pump....etc. Check voltage at the pump too.

Will Do
2011-04-01 13:43:52
Ric, If you are going to replace the pump just order

another walbro 255 from online, they are like $90.

2011-04-01 14:41:52
will do
this a.m. and the more i think about it, the more i'm convinced it IS the pump. i've noticed that it takes a lot longer to pressurize the line when i turn the key to on, before i crank the engine over, then it used to.:o

thanks again for the help, guys
2011-04-01 15:08:30
But how are your afr readings when the car start to act up??
Because if it lean then it could be the pump but if its not that it could be something else..
And forget about the knock code and the timing maps both maps should be similar put 00 in the flag switch space and it will clear all codes on knock, egr and O2 sensor
2011-04-01 17:28:11
with the engine idling at 1300-1400 rpm (foot off the pedal) afr's are ~13.6-14.8 (varying). if i try to take it to 2k rpm and hold it, for example, it will rev up/down continuously on its own from ~2500rpm down to ~1500rpm. with the afr's changing with the revs, rich/lean to the point of 13.6 to 21.5 lean.

new walbro 255hp on order

thanks for the flag help, Payu
2011-04-01 18:51:59
Well hopefully that fixes her... I want a ride already damn it.

2011-04-01 19:09:18
How do you diagnose your car Nissan datascan via consult port or with a generic scanner??
You need to watch for the maf voltage entering into the ECU..
Looks like you have some unmetered air before the maf (big ass vaccum leak)
Since the car wont Idle by itself...
And wont revup by lack of fuel or maf not reading the correct amount of air that entering the engine.
Or you have an incorrect K value and injector scalling
Have you checked for vaccum leak??
2011-04-01 19:21:17
doesn't sound like a pump issue to me honestly, usually when pumps go they go from what i've seen.. but idk.. could be wrong..

when ever i change a part an develop a problem i always swap back to the original first before shot gunning money at what "could be" the problem..

on the other hand it doesn't hurt to have a new pump or an extra even..
2011-04-01 19:29:35
Before spending more time and money on a new fuel pump, you can test the old one by installing a fuel pressure gauge and take some readings. Pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and observe the pressure guage while the engine is held at 2,000 rpm. If the pressure is stable, then there is nothing wrong with the pump. If the pressure flauctuate, replace the pump.

Like Payu, I suspect you have a vacuum leak or the K value is off.
2011-06-12 00:25:12
updated for fix
figured an update was in order.
somehow, one of the msd 8969's, used for the cam switch points, was re-set to some oddball value below the base idle rpm. so, 8 seconds (an msd internal timer) after start-up the affected cam would be switched to the big lobes and the idle would naturally got to total crap. (these engines will barely idle on the big lobes)
the good part is.....the motor has ALL NEW sensors, leak down and compression test were good, and no vacuum leaks
a couple more weeks and the STI injectors go back in, a bit more break-in time on the Calum RT re-tune, then i'll be looking to dyno it soon after.
i'll start a new thread in the West Region when i have a dyno date set.
Last edited by Teal97 on 2011-06-12 at 00-29-34.
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