Thread: Easiest fix for rod knock

I've got a VE crank and rods sitting in my storage unit if anyone wants to throw me an offer. Shipping is going to cost obviously.

Sorry, I was asking Squirlz.

Motor is out. I just don't want to sink money onto it since I know I will be rebuilding it in the near future.

I also have a DE crank I could use if needed. But if I have to go that far I might just not do anything.

If it was still in the car I would have just check the crank tolerance and swap in some acl's, its not as bad as it sounds..... don't waste your money. $100 and you are back on the road. I would have left it in there.

You already have it out of the car now... so just do what you want. Personally I would just put it back on the road and save the all motor build crap for a seperate motor. Having a motor build keeping you from driving is frustrating and not worth it.

Open the bottom end up, and if the bearing shells are still there, just replace with new ones of the same grade and button it back up. If the bearing shells are missing on any of the rods, either consider a new crank or just scrap the engine and start with another one. That's what I'd do.

The motor was never in this car so nothing lost there. I bought the motor with rod knock. I was just going to do the whole build but things have come up and it would be nice the put the car on the road.

Well not so good news. 1, 2, & 3 look good but 4 is out of the question. Not only did the bearing fail but a good portion of the bearing is gone. Check out the pics.








So guessing by the damage my only option is the have the crank and rods machined and install new bearings.

If the rod caps were able to slide on/off easily, just replace crankshaft, if not then get new rods. I would look into just getting another engine or a turbo short block and driving it around NA for a bit.

Just my opinion, but if the bearing shells are still there, then there should be no damage to the crank journal or rods. The shell material is softer than the crank and the rods and it is the first material to fail in the event of over heating or hammering. If the shells are still there, I say you're fine. Just put a new bearing in and roll. Maybe I'm not being cautious enough?

why not just order bearings for the de crank. drop that in and go?