Thread: Honing...

I have limited time to do this. I am all over the place. Machine shop would cost me a days worth of work. Then I gotta wait on main bearings and thrust washers. I honestly don't think a hone is needed. Everything could be done quickly but I always manage to find ways to bullshit and waste time. If it goes it goes. I don't plan on it lasting long anyways. Its just one of those feelings, lol. I will end up beating the living piss out of it and finish some grudge matches I have. I need to find myself a 4 door b14 1.6 and just cruise!

In my experience, the machine shop I use takes about 2 days to complete everything, and they are worth every penny. I'll post up some pics of their block work when my RWD VE gets done at the end of march. Honestly you should do the honing yourself, just have them resurface the block and do the honing yourself, it's not a huge task and you get to take off just as much as you need and not more. If you have a ridge or a dip at hte top of the cylinder, don't bother honing, just get larger pistons, that ridge is where the top ring will not seal and you'll get blow by.

I'll see when I tear her down. Should be within a few weeks. I just like setting a gameplan before hand which is why I made this thread. Depending how the motor looks, I will either install as is or cover everything up and give it a quick hone. I need to arrange a weekend off and find a ring compressor.

I just want to run these sr16 pistons to see how the car does. Its lighter this year and still have more weight to pull out. I have no doubt of it running a high to mid 12 second time with a 2.0 block and these pistons.

make sure you pass through the Burgh on the way to Monti in May. I wanna see you beat my boy's K. We'll put the toolbox in my car this time.

Don't resurface the block if there are no nicks or deep gouges in it. just clean it up as much as you can with a razor blade, use chemtool to get all residue from the headgasket off, and then use 2000 grit and get it smooth as glass by hand, the original factory machining swirls should still be visible when you sand it down smooth, if they are dissapearing, stop sanding and just get it clean.

bes shouldnt have a problem with the deck or head surfaces, he said hes running a vet hg.

stratton.

even still, you have to get all the black stuff off from the top of the deck. Once its all clean I use Aceton and clothe towels, once there is no more black coming off from the deck onto the paper towels, then I can put the gasket on.

The surface was very smooth and clean before the motor was assembled. I can't imagine it being too bad since I have about 4-5K on this setup. I figure I will clean everything up and use some copper spray on the VET gasket and torque everything down to spec. Hopefully should have the ball rolling soon.

Don't use copper spray, the factory VE headgasket has a sealant on there that will seal up just fine. That's why a metal headgasket is good to use since there is a coating on it. the factory paper gaskets do not have this coating and that is why people switch them out. But I'm not building the engine, so its up to you. Just wanted to share what I do with the SR20 engines... and most other aluminum head aluminum block engines.

I'm open to all other ideas. I just do things the way I have seen them done and what I have seen work. I figured the cooper spray wouldn't hurt since the gasket is being reused.