Thread: N1 pistons at 10k rpm

hmm, i was under the impression if you enlarge the bore by sleeving the block, the head needs to be machined to get rid of the quench zones

Steve

he would need to send his head somewhere.. 10K is all well and good but its no use if you only mkaing power till 7500..

that was gonna be my next question ... but was gonna wait till kelford bring out the new cam and move the powerband up using adjustable sprockets

if not, look into getting one made up matching my set up. pricey, yes, but this isnt happening overnight

Steve

No. You do not want to get rid of the quench pads, especially on a high comp set ups...

One thing to remeber as well - what we see on the tacho of 9700, 9500 etc is really 8900 and 8500 etc. Im talking true engine speed.

I completely agree with GTI kurt, they dont like it for sustained periods, plain and simple.

4cw and 8cw makes fuck all difference really. 4cw just means you have less opposing weight on one side of the stroke, but 8cw means you have more weight and more force against your bearings.

The new nissan SR cranks that they make, both SR and RB come with smaller bob weights that are thinner and smaller in diameter. Their new manufacturer likes a different design to the original manufacturing. This is an argument for another time and place though :P

I'm not going off the factory factory tach.

i am with cory on this. looking at the logs from my AEM i would shift at 9300-9500 rpms. my tach was dead on because i tuned it to be and yes there is a dial on the back to fix this on most tachs.

best i was able to get out of my car was 13.2 cory @102mph. car made 207 whp

Why would anyone want to move powerband in upper rpm with cam gears? Its opposite of what everyone trying to do. Getting same hp/tq lower is better! Unless you just want to say to your friend that you CAN rev to 10k...

depends what your goals are mate

mine is to get as much power up top as possible for circuit use, as im not going to spend much time in low/mid range

Steve

Then your goals are totally wrong. For road racing, you need to make power/tq as soon as possible, keep engine realiable, also you need strong midrange. Peak power is nothing, you need good powerband, good torque.

Other thing is, with revving to 10k rpm you would need 100% custom gears, because there is no stock gears that would suit 10k engine. You are focusing too much at engine... start with suspension, brakes, weight reduction, safety and driving skills. Engine is last thing to do.