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Thread: Optimal VVL kick-over point

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Posts: 21-30 of 34
2011-01-31 22:27:54
#21
Apperently our butt dynos are very accurate

Dudeman
2011-01-31 22:57:25
#22
Originally Posted by Dudeman258
Tuning it on the street is very simple.

Start low, move it up until you cannot notice a difference in acceleration rate when the cams switch. This will provide optimal acceleration possible without a dyno tune.

I did it this way and literally we were unable to get a smoother curve with dyno tuning.


Dudeman


I get that but, wouldn't be better if the cams switch separately?

Maybe If dynobutt says 5200 both, I could move the intake back a couple hundreds and delay the exhaust a couple hundreds too like 5000 for the intake and 5400/5500 exhaust. In theory it should feel better
2011-02-01 07:25:27
#23
Why in theory? What's the thought behind it?
2011-02-01 08:24:36
#24


Dyno showing 3 progressive runs. We kept adjusting the switch points until we smoothed out the lines as much as possible, eventually bumping the intake another 100 rpm and ended up with a 600 rpm spread between intake and exhaust switch point.
Last edited by happynole on 2011-02-01 at 08-33-38.
2011-02-01 08:27:22
#25
Cool! Gonna switch them a bit higher and test again then
2011-02-01 19:40:34
#26
Originally Posted by happynole


Dyno showing 3 progressive runs. We kept adjusting the switch points until we smoothed out the lines as much as possible, eventually bumping the intake another 100 rpm and ended up with a 600 rpm spread between intake and exhaust switch point.


so you gained 12hp an 9tq from switching from 5200/6000 to 5600/6300 ? or was there more involved then just the cam switch points ??
2011-02-01 22:10:27
#27
We also made afr adjustments. That run was the 3rd adjustment after we set the switch points to 56k and 63k. We later made additional adjustments, but this was a pic I had in my gallery and it clearly shows the steps you take during dyno tuning to set the crossovers.
2011-02-01 23:35:04
#28
Ahh ok just had to clerify or you know people would be thinkin wat I was thinkin then expecting the same results lol
2011-02-02 00:49:16
#29
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
i ran 4800 stock, 4600 seemed to low, switched to n1's an set them to 5200 an it was good, tryed 5400 an 5600 but it just seemed like it took forever for vvl to hit then when it did it was abrubt so i backed it down to 5200


Thanx for the info. Originally I talked to Serban about his setup and he recommended 5200. But I think he was also running N1's or 16's at the time.

My main issue is I was a clean sweep. Not some huge kick up high ya know... Just smooth power ban increase with that nice baahhhRAAAHHH!

So 4800/5k stock?

I usually shift around 4-4500 every gear anyways just because I like to get up to speed and have some pull with other cars for a bad reason.
2011-02-02 07:34:01
#30
Originally Posted by happynole
We also made afr adjustments. That run was the 3rd adjustment after we set the switch points to 56k and 63k. We later made additional adjustments, but this was a pic I had in my gallery and it clearly shows the steps you take during dyno tuning to set the crossovers.


Why would you lower the VVL points if you can see, in your case, you made the most power by switching it at 56k en 63k?
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