Thread: 92mm / 92mm Looking For Opinions

oh hell ya, of course more money is going to yield more power as long as you spend your money in the right place. If your goal is to have THE MOST horsepower out of an N/A SR ever, then that would be something you'd have to take into consideration..

I just want a substanially quicker vehicle (and some lopey idle ). I don't need the quickest most powerful N/A DE ever made. I don't have the time to gain the knowledge required to do so, nor the funds. For me, I'm not competing with anyone or trying to be on the top of a list of best built SR.. 180-220 WHP will be plenty enough for me.

Also, I have a 7 year old son, so I have other things to focus on with my expenses... I was going to be "ok" with my SSAC for a while, but decided since that was the best price I had seen on an ASP to go ahead and pick it up... I figured once I get my car tuned and that ASP header installed, I should have another 20 hp over my current setup. (the tune being the more important part of that).... And I'll have the ASP header around for when my SR23xE is done.

I still don't know if it'll be VE or DE. I am starting to lean towards 91mm on a VE and 92 on a DE. The thought here is, I want to be able to have some spare room on the more expensive VE block in case of issues down the road. DE blocks are dime-a-dozen ....

Id recommend 91 mm for a street motor. Theres no diff in ve or de block really, so pull that out of the equation, the money spent is on the sleeving and machining.

Stratton.

no difference with regard to what?

and I would like to hear why the recommendations for 91mm on a daily driver vs. 92mm. my biggest problem is I don't just hear someone say "do this" and say "ok" without hearing some good reasoning behind it.. I am sure you have some good reason.

Im saying the cost weither it be de or ve is in the sleeving and machining.

My personal opinion, 92mm is thin, if u ever looked at the difference bewteen a 90mm block and a 92mm block its really evident.

Will it be an issue, only time will tell, i dont want to he the guy to find out. 30k miles down the road or if you melt a piston, you can always go that .5 or 1mm over. You will only have to pay for a bore, not a new block and get ot sleeved and machined.

if i was building a race only motor sure 92mm, street motor 91.

stratton.

yeah, the cost of the sleeving will be the same, but if I spend $1800 on 92mm bore/hone/sleeves for DE , and something goes wrong - no big deal, I can replace the DE for cheap and start over for less money. Junkyard DE's can be had for $100. and JDM 10:1 DE's for $450.

if the $1000 VE is bored/honed/sleeved to 92mm for the additional $1800 - well I'm out a lot more money..

1000-100 = 900
1000-450 = 550
considering the VE can put out so much more power because of it's magical powers, I figure for my needs, just be safe and go with 91 mm.... it will still yeild more power than my 92mm DE

Ur not getting what im saying.

U wouldnt buy a full motor just for the block would you ?

Theres always blown motors or bate blocks on these boards.

Stratton.

I'd be shy of buying a VE block that had already been tore into or blown or whatever..

Why, ur SLEEVING THE MOTOR. as long as there isnt a whole in the block and or its not warped youll be good.

Stratton.

Yeah, block doesnt matter at all, Make sure it comes with all the main caps and so on and your good to go. Id try to get one that had rod knock or something of that nature.

Yeah it does not matter your going to have new sleeves and everything machined anyways. Plus you would want a ve or det block no matter what. When your going through all the trouble of sleeving a block in pursuit of hp your going to want the oil squirters. Ve blocks are available all over if you look. I kno charles had a few for 100 a pop. Dre usually has a few aswell.