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Thread: 92mm / 92mm Looking For Opinions

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Posts: 41-50 of 60
2011-01-05 15:04:58
#41
N1 pistons has less CR.
2011-01-05 23:30:00
#42
Originally Posted by IWannaGoFast
With the sr16 pistons you need 1mm shaved off the top to get 12.5:1 correct?


i think its just in the valve notches only.
2011-01-05 23:31:16
#43
i think the sr16ve pistons have to have the skirts notched to clear the oil squirters also.
2011-01-06 01:34:26
#44
Decent list man.

Theres a few things id do diffrently, but all in all soinds like a solid, budget concious build.

Stratton.
2011-01-06 02:02:58
#45
Originally Posted by STRATTON
Decent list man.

Theres a few things id do diffrently, but all in all soinds like a solid, budget concious build.

Stratton.


Let me hear it, I'm open to all ideas.

What ecu/standalone would you run?
2011-01-06 02:41:31
#46
Originally Posted by IWannaGoFast
I don't know if I'm going to bore it or not yet. If I do I will be keeping the 86mm crank. I just don't know that I wanna drop all that money at a machine shop so here's what im considering so far.

86 mm 12.5:1 CP Pistons
Manley Rods
ACL Bearings
Head Ported & Polished with Supertechs
Kelford 184c Cams
Cam Gears (Unsure of which ones)
BJ Racing Intake Manifold
370cc Injectors
ASP or Fuji Header
3" Exhaust back to a Vibrant black muffler
Z32 Maf
Fidanza Flywheel
Full Pulley Set (Unsure if I wanna do a crank pulley)

Nice set up.. I'm going to quote your parts list in one of my threads as to not thread jack..
2011-01-06 03:03:26
#47
Originally Posted by vqman
Nice set up.. I'm going to quote your parts list in one of my threads as to not thread jack..


No problem
2011-01-06 03:14:54
#48
id scrap the manly rods, not really needed on a some what stock bore and stroke motor. oem ve rods will be just fine.

id do a 87mm pistons at 12:5:1. im sure your machinest when he looks at the block will tell you the liner is not straight and it will need to be bored, weither it be 5 thousands or 15 thousands it will still need to be bored. so go one mm over and end up at 87mm.

i would not run the fuji header, great header for a stock set up, you want a built header. there are better headers out there then asp, but for the price its still a decent choice.

other then that your right on track man.

stratton.
2011-01-06 03:29:08
#49
Originally Posted by STRATTON
id scrap the manly rods, not really needed on a some what stock bore and stroke motor. oem ve rods will be just fine.

id do a 87mm pistons at 12:5:1. im sure your machinest when he looks at the block will tell you the liner is not straight and it will need to be bored, weither it be 5 thousands or 15 thousands it will still need to be bored. so go one mm over and end up at 87mm.

i would not run the fuji header, great header for a stock set up, you want a built header. there are better headers out there then asp, but for the price its still a decent choice.

other then that your right on track man.

stratton.
yeah, any better than ASP and you're not on a budget build anymore.. I've seen some custom headers for $1500 while used ASP headers can be had for $500 ..
2011-01-06 03:34:26
#50
a budget is all relative, your gonna spend a few thousand on a motor build, one of the most important components is the header, dont skimp on that.

i know you just picked one up, im not saying in any way they are bad headers. they are good headers that make good power. with every part of a motor there is always room for improvement.

what im trying to say is that its all relative to what kind of motor its on.

your header on your proprosed build, will perform just great, but in the same sense im sure you know theres still alot of power to be gained from a better design. hp is dictated by the wallet at the end of the day !

stratton.
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