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Thread: 92mm stroker crank-update-new pics page 37!!

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Posts: 581-590 of 800
2011-09-08 14:53:00
#581
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
O_o. You joking right?


Lol, it was a joke. Bolt on ve's with n1's cams, pistons, and bolt ons make around that power. Obviously it'll make a lot more than that considering what else has been done. Gl with the dyno #'s Stratt. Cant wait to see the vids.
2011-09-09 18:22:32
#582
Put another tank threw her. Hit up the spot last night after class. Got alot of people saying dayum that cars back out lol.

Looking foward for 100% driveability and of coarse hp. Got a couple cars in mind that are gonna get it next weekend.

Two car shows on sunday.

Stratton.
2011-09-09 18:47:04
#583
Put that bitch on a dyno, Rich! I gotta know what she is putting down.
2011-09-09 18:47:12
#584
Once you put more than like 4-5 miles on a motor you kind of lose the poss of a hard break-in effect. I would really have liked to see you run it in on the dyno again I think the ring seal would have been insanely good if you did it like that.
2011-09-09 19:10:04
#585
Originally Posted by Benito
Once you put more than like 4-5 miles on a motor you kind of lose the poss of a hard break-in effect. I would really have liked to see you run it in on the dyno again I think the ring seal would have been insanely good if you did it like that.


Many people do it that way, others choose to do it slowly, over time. Taking it further and further the more miles that are put on it. Personally I like the idea of breaking it in on the dyno as I feel the rings usually seat better, especially on a boosted ride. The way strat is doing it is probably the best way to go with this setup since he can make sure everything is in working order before going all out wot. The fact that he is running huge cams, has had the block sleeved and work done to the head and cc would make me want to make sure that everything was working properly before dyno tuning wot runs... Plus, the 2.4ve builds are still having the kinks worked out of them so it isn't like there is a cookie cutter setup to follow. There are so many different ways people do break ins and each way has their own positives and negatives. Whichever way you are most comfortable with is the way you should go. I also do feel that if something was going to let go it would happen in the first few minutes of run time. There is a ton of time and money in this build so breaking it in slowly does make sense to me at least. Now if it were a turbo build on a non sleeved block I think hitting boost on the dyno helps seat the rings.
Drew
2011-09-09 19:21:18
#586
Yeah you make some good points. I'm still super stoked about this build. Not trying to throw on cold water or anything.
2011-09-11 03:44:12
#587
most new car and motorcycle manufacturers advise in their owners manual' to take it easy on the motors at first. increasing the revs as the miles build up, until "they" consider them "broken- in". they also warn against constant speed driving and advise to vary the rpms during break-in.
is this not to ensure the rings seat properly? among other things.
2011-09-11 04:50:38
#588
Most hard break-in folks will tell you that the "take it easy" school of thought is the work of actuaries who count beans and write insurance policies. IT makes sense because more accidents happen in the first few miles. It may not be ideal for ring seal though.
2011-09-11 19:07:50
#589
Way i see it is best way to break in an engine is high load.

so uphill low rpm high gear. varying the rpm as much as possible without reving the piss out of it. Changing the oil often is also good. Like two to 3 times in the first 1000kms. using a cheap mineral oil.
2011-09-11 19:35:25
#590
One of the best oil for break in is shell rotella for the diesel motors....
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