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Thread: Budget ve build

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Posts: 41-50 of 106
2010-12-12 03:31:00
#41
I would like to thank everyone that posted your opinions! I think I'm going to end up using some sr16ve pistons with kelford cams!
Now what are your suggestions on a header?? 4-1, 4-2-1, what's size primaries and secondaries??
2010-12-12 05:07:14
#42
Tj ill have some 16ve pistons for sale real soon.

Run a headgasket that will bring you to 13:1. Do some minor headwork. Nice hader and do what sr20gtir said, tune tune tune.

Stratton.
2010-12-12 05:13:59
#43
Problem with kelford cams on a budget build is that you gonna need to cahnge valve springs too....

Also, to get them dailed in you are probably gonna need pistons with valve reliefs, so you probably need the 16ve, N1 or cp pistons now.

Then again, those two things (cams and pistons) are where I would spend my money if I were you. You can always get/fab a good header later.
2010-12-12 08:25:30
#44
Originally Posted by tj5854
I would like to thank everyone that posted your opinions! I think I'm going to end up using some sr16ve pistons with kelford cams!
Now what are your suggestions on a header?? 4-1, 4-2-1, what's size primaries and secondaries??


Pick up some BC or supertech springs along with cam gears as the kelfords DO NOT make power at 0,0. I can't tell you where to set them but you can figure that out when you dyno.

4-1 header
1 3/4
1-7/8
2 1/4 choke 23" long give or take.

Will make the perfect street sweeper.
2010-12-12 18:01:10
#45
I seconds those header specs, I'm running them aswell. Make sure to use a nice collector and smooth transition from 2.25 back up to 3in. This should make atleast 10whp over the typical ssac
2010-12-13 03:01:07
#46
tj I would take cory and Sr20gtir's advice. Some people kill me posting advice with no experience with the motor whatsoever.

TJ your build looks nice.
The DET bottom end will work great. If it is a running motor pull it apart put new rings and bearings in it. Buy you some n1 pistons and have them notched for the oil squirters. Have your head and intake port matched while its all apart. Go with a VE headgasket and n1 cams.

This motor will come alive around 6k and hold power until 8.5k plus you have the 8cw crank. This is a cheap build.
If you are going to daily drive the car there is no need to do any more. 220whp is great in a light b13.
2010-12-13 12:47:12
#47
This motor is going in my b14 with ps and ac.. That's why I'm going to try and get some more power out of it.. I know itwont be fast. But it'll be quick I hope
2010-12-13 14:35:59
#48
- I personally have no exprience with the VE as I just picked up my first one not to long ago. The comments I made in posts 15,18,28, and 33 is good advice. Giving basic advice is simple. The only thing that would be in question for me is post 35 when I suggested him to use DET rods over the VE rods. If sr20GTiR say use the VE rods instead, he probably has a good reason for it and I trust his post. Anyway, hit me up later TJ.
2010-12-13 16:19:32
#49
Well the ve rods will be best because they are lighter, unless he's trying to really push a ton of nos id deff stick to the ve rods.
2010-12-13 16:33:41
#50
Originally Posted by cory
Well the ve rods will be best because they are lighter, unless he's trying to really push a ton of nos id deff stick to the ve rods.


^That was my thought process. He kept mentioning Eagle rods so I thought he wanted something a little stronger. That's why I suggested the DET rods for a more budget upgrade.
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