Thread: VE with stock cams= good daily

I would really give your car a good check over and do a compression test because it should be pulling a lot harder than that.

Back on to topic, and I get what you're saying about the stock cams being enough. With dd, you really want as much torque as you can get imo and the n1's don't supply that. I think if it were my car, I would go with some 20ve cams because they are better all around cams for what youre looking for or just stay with the stock cams if you decide to stay the stock route.

You running stock ecu and wondering why it is slow? When you switching cams at?

I see the point of this thread. The sr16 cams or n1s really lack the bottom end and you end up trying to hit vvl to feel the kick. I think the stock cams are better for dd as you have mentioned or maybe even the 20v's but what is the point of buying the 20v's if it's just a dd. Totaly get your point makes sense.

This thread is really annoying me and I cant do much since we all know I do not even own a VVL powered car.

I guess not one person read the numbers I put up there or the dyno graph that another member put up there.

There is almost no difference, down low, where it would matter for a daily driver, between the two cams. Let's say your switch point is 5200 RPM, you really will not see that more than twice DD'ing like a civil person.

The only difference you will feel is the car will peak earlier and begin to get slower earlier than a car with N1 cams.

The illusion that they are better is masked behind this concept.

It is best to have an exhaust cam larger than the intake cam to promote scavenging. The only VVL cams to do this are SR16VE cams. What goes in, MUST go out. Leaving the gases inside the engine does nothing good, period. It is wasting time, air, energy when you could be making more power.

20v cams were designed around a 6 speed gearbox, remember this.

20v's are even more aggressive cams than N1's as far as concerning the daily driving low lift and low duration parts of the cams.

I am speaking from MY experience, I understand what the graph is telling you in your mind. But when you drive the car there is no dyno in your brain just feel.

Basically if I drive my car normal it feels ok, now of course since the cams really start to wake up and give power delivery on the high lobes I end up revving the motor out. If I had regular stock cams there would not be as much power on the highs therefore I would just relax.

Get a VE throw some n1s, sr16 cams, and stock cams in the motor and you will see the difference yourself, I have driven all. Or come to NY and I will personally show you.

And that is exactly my point, feelings are subjective.

Number are objective.

I have used stock, 16ve, & N1 cams on the same motor and the stockers are more suited for daily driving because of more usable low end grunt on the low lobes. Unless you own or have owned a VE you wouldn't understand. Numbers & specs are one thing, the driving experience is what counts. Many cams have been manufactured for various engines that have had almost identical specs but the driving experience left something to be desired. Again, tuning is the key to getting the most out of any setup no matter what cams are used. There have been tuning bins for N1 cams that have had the timing more agressive on the low lobes because of the loss of low end below 3K compared to the stock VE cams. Payu from the old forum gave us N1 users one of the 1st tunes to help solve this issue. So numbers are objective but unless you tune your setup to get the best performance possible that's all they are... just numbers.

Thank You!!!!!!!!