Thread: sr18ve project

Ok, I have given up on the idea of a turbo 1.6ve, and instead have my head set on a big bore 1.8 build, hopefully revving close to 10k, as this vzr is slowly becoming a track car. this will be the update thread on how things are going

my pulsar at the moment: http://www.sr20-forum.com/members-rides/36901-steve55-jn15-vz-r-project.html

I dont really want a debate on whether I should go turbo or not. As I'm looking for safe and reliable high rev fun people, and need some help

I want to bore and sleeve to 92mm with a 68.7mm crank from my 16ve, use N1 cams, supertech springs and retainers, adjustable sprockets, Link Storm ecu, acl bearings, mazworx 92 ve gasket and some type of ITBs

I dont know where to get the work done in the UK, as i would love to send to Mazworx but no can do
http://www.sr20-forum.com/mazworx/30924-mazworx-darton-sleeved-block-special.html

few questions:-
1) 92mm the largest possible safe diameter of a bore on a SR engine?

2) I know my crank is going to be fine for this build, but what about the rods? aluminium I-beam maybe? what options are there?

cheers peeps
Steve

Id say make easier and cheaper 2.0l build. For road racing you need torque and one day you will regret its only a 1.8l. Expensive and less reliable engine than 2.0l. And for 10k rpm powerband, you will need custom gears or you will be damn slow with stock long gears.

dude stroke it to 2.0 iv got a spare crank and srods :P stick some pistons in it and drive it..

Yes, easier to swap crank and rods than bore and sweat if it was done well with torque plate and all (great cause of unreliability).

If you insist in boring, swap the 2L crank and bore to 92mm x 86 crank, 2.2L more torque and a whole lot more of fun than 1.8 N/A at 10,000 rpms, which by the way would need bigger cams to be useful.

If you were saying, not asking and want no debates as you said above, then:

1. To be safely safe in safety, max bore should be 90mm. 92mm and some say even 94mm is possible when N/A, but not 5 years/10,000rpms/abusive track driven safe.

2. For 10k rpms get unobtanium rods and bearings if you can, but I am not aware of any options for the SR16 rods. Maybe custom made for you only ($$$).

thanks for you responses guys

dont really agree on the unreliability comments, i am lead to believe that an oversquare engine with a larger bore and shorter crank will reduce the pistons acceleration and deceleration from TDC, meaning less load on the bearings, hence better reliability

exactly what nissan did with the sr16ve?

Steve

nissan didn't take cylinder walls to within a hairs breadth of their life and rev it to 10k creating all that heat in a thinner wall with the 16ve though did they :P

hmm, i like the different idea steve, but stroking makes all kinds of sense.

stroke it, go mega high 13:1+comp and buy some sunoco :lol:

If you're intent on keeping the stock 16ve crank. I think you'd probably be fine with stock rods with uprated fasteners.
Because the average piston speed at 10k would be nearly 3 m/s slower than than a 2L build at 9k and there is plenty of cars getting round reving to 9k on stock 20ve rods and fasteners, admitedly not race motors but plenty of track day cars.
But for the price of a set of lightweight manley rods its pretty cheap insurance and piece of mind.
I'd be fine with 92 bore myself. But I think for what it costs to get a block sleeved maybe your better going to 91 to start with at least that way you have a couple of rebuilds out of the block if needed.
for power to 10k you'd need kelfords or franklin stage 4's. N1's won't get you there. Also for springs both kelford and franklins do springs. I think only franklins do titanium retainers and from memory they are cheaper than supertech
Although I just seen your in the UK I thought from the Link ECU comment you might have been NZ or OZ! So it might be cheaper for supertech stuff i'm not sure with exchange rates and shipping.

Surely there would be someone in the UK who is capable of sleeving an sr block. I'd be reluctant to get mazworx to do it (not because of the job they do) but purely because of the cost to get a block sleeved and shipped from there.

let the guy build what he wants to build..

wow, is Mazworx the best option even for overseas folks when it comes to boring the SR?

it's a good deal here in the states (compared to stroking the motor).. but I can't imagine cost shipped overseas..

Its not necessarily that they are the best
Its just that this being a american forum for the most part Mazworx reputation is well known on here by people who have used them and through there activity on the forum. I imagine there would be any number of people within any country capable of doing the job. Its just we got to find them, then when you find someone who says they can do it, you need to find out if they have a good reputation.
Personally If I was sleeving a block i'd find someone local, but that cause its a long way to ship a block from the US to NZ, it'd probably cost 3 times what it cost to get the work done just shipping it!
Maybe that is a viable option for someone in the UK. I'm not sure what shipping would cost.
Though I'd expect there would be a heap of people in the UK capable of the job. Some of the go fast parts they make for their popular british cars there isn't a lack of good engineering companies!