Thread: With regards to Turbo VE's

Haha, yea I really don't want to start breaking a whole lot, but the clutch is rated for 400lb ft so I would like to hit close to that.

by recommending 0 on the cams what do you mean? 0 timing, cause that's what I was at before and I saw a power loss when the cams switched. I am talking about PEAK power, I dropped from 260whp to 248 on 10psi when the cams switched. I don't see how changing the cams at that rpm range is going to do anything. AF ratio stays steady through the switchover, going slightly richer, but not enough for 12whp.

exhaust is 3" mandrel VRS with a cat.

I think I can get a stong midrange with this turbo as it is not a drag racer size. I feel a strong powerband will start at 4k and end at 7k or so. I was thinking of having the power level off at 7k into the drop to 7500. I guess I could just get the bigger housing on the turbo, get some springs and retainers, and have jwt set the limiter as high as it will go and see how it does revving to 8k. But I am just trying to be realistic as this is going to be a street driven car with some road racing every now and then.

My bad i saw that was where you started. 0deg. on the cam sprockets.
By raising the cam switch over points you have a smoother transition. you already have adequate exhaust flow. I do not think you have a turbo size problem. Is more like finding the right switch overpoint with the right cam degree on the sprockets. Try retarding the exhaust cam only a couple of degrees and see if there is a change.

Will do. On the next build I think I am going to put the intake at 2.5 degrees - and advancing the exhaust cam about 5 or 7.5. That will take out about 7.5-10 degrees of overlap and maybe that is all I need for this setup to work. Then I will take it to the dyno and get tuned to see what really works for my setup.

While I'm at it, More VE camshaft overlap:
SR20VET - 13*
SR20VE - 48*
SR20VE 20V - 57*
SR16VE - 70*
SR16VE - N1 (v1?) - 78*

These are overlap numbers. Based on my size of turbo the smaller the overlap the better to an extent. The small lobes work good, but I am missing a lot of top end. I guess I can take out some overlap and go from there, but the big cams would make a high revving, big turbo monster! If I had the money I would go with a gt35r and shoot for 600whp with the bigger cam options. With the extra overlap on the bigger turbos I bet you could make some outrageous power.

I guess the sr20ve cams would be a slight upgrade to the VET cams, if I can dial out some overlap then I can get my cams to be like s4 cams maybe. I think the s4s have like 35 degrees overlap give or take. If I can get my cams around there, maybe 40 degrees or so I should be good.

reving all out like that makes the car almost specificly a dyno queen, definitly not going to be streetable at all. and that kinda powerband will be really short.

exactly, I don't wanna rev it up that high. Just ordered new 8.5:1 pistons from Greg V. that's 8.5:1 in a VE.

this is an interesting read for me, i decided on the GT3076R but with the T3 82A/R housing, ive ordered my protech log with 44mm tial wastegate flange. ive got the 8.5:1 JE gtir pistons and a 1.8mm cometic head gasket. i wonder how the 20VE cams will do with this set up

Let me know, but make it quick. I am building another bottom end right now and it is easiest to change the housing when the engine is out. I took the head off today and everything looks beautiful. Running really rich from what I can see. All the valves are black. But no signs of detonation on 1.2 bar and 91 octane!!!

I am going for a lower compression ratio so I can really push the boost. I want 20psi on pump so I can nail 400whp easy. What do you guys think? Only revving to 7500rpm is 500whp achievable with this turbo 27psi on race gas? Or am I going to need like 30psi to do that?

What headgasket are you running?