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Thread: is this correct timing setup?

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Posts: 41-50 of 53
2010-10-11 16:37:14
#41
sub'd
2010-10-11 16:40:58
#42
Making sure the exhaust side down ot crank gear is of utmost importance, imho.

When I had issues, I popped my cover and the cams were correctly timed but my dizzy would show 15* almost all the way advanced.

I took the exhaust cam gear off an put it back on and the timing went almost back to normal. I had the chain tight from intake gear to exhaust gear and exhaust side down to crank gear when I re-did this whole operation.

I even went so far as to retard the exhaust cam gear one tooth and tried to manually crank the engine, no dice. I moved it back and cranked it over almost 20 times. That satisfied me and I put everything back together. It has been right as rain since.
2010-10-11 17:52:34
#43
Thanks, both of you, for your responses.


Originally Posted by BenFenner
It's hard to do, but it's certainly possible to skip a tooth on the crank sprocket.

Edit: Autech beat me to it.
2010-10-11 19:35:53
#44
Originally Posted by ragt20
heres the pics of it now after moving em forward.









You had it right the first time, now you are off by one tooth on both cams.

Before doing anything to the camshafts, always, always, always, always first put the engine to #1 TDC of the compression stroke. Everything is referenced off of the #1 TDC ie cam timing, ignition timing, fuel injection timing.

I don't feel like repeating so here what I wrote for adjustable cam gears, it still applies for your case.


Originally Posted by 5speed
This is what I do.

1. First, rotate engine to TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder #1. The lobes for the intake and exhaust should be facing away from each other. Also verify by looking at the TDC indicator on the crank pulley.

2. The cam dowel pins should be at 10 oclock for the intake and 12 for the exhaust.

3. Use a marker or whiteout and mark the chain link corresponding to the indicators on the cam gears.

4. Remove the tensioner

5. Change the one gear at a time. Put back the cam gear to the position you want and make sure the cam gear indicator is put next to mark on the chain link, the mark that you made with the marker or whiteout.

6. Make sure there are 20 links/rollers between the chain marks and camshaft indicators.

7. Compress the tensioner, lock it and reinstall.

8. Once everything checked out, release the tensioner by pushing on it with a long wrench. You need to release the tensioner before turning or cranking the engine in order to avoid the chain from jumping.

9. Crank over by hand and you should hear the tensioner ratcheting outward and taking up the slack.

10. You will need to retime the ignition if you moved the exhaust cam.

Done.


All bets are off if the crank pulley if defective, where the outer pulley is able to torque against the inner because the rubber insulator has deteriorated.
2010-10-12 06:42:57
#45
Originally Posted by Autech


end thread.


not to try and jack a thread but i saw this thread and my dizzy sits ~15* off but mine is turned to look like it is retarding my timing. my intake matches the diagram at 5 links from the head to the dowel but my exhaust side is 8 when the diagram says it should be 9? I have 20 links between dowel to dowel. I have a 96 200sx dizzy and it is turned all the way retarded and i am at 21* of timing?

Originally Posted by 5speed

Originally Posted by 5speed View Post
This is what I do.

1. First, rotate engine to TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder #1. The intake lobes for the intake and exhaust should be facing away from each other. Also verify by looking at the TDC indicator on the crank pulley.

2. The cam dowel pins should be at 10 oclock for the intake and 12 for the exhaust.

3. Use a marker or whiteout and mark the chain corresponding to the indicators on the cam gear.

4. Remove the tensioner

5. Change the one gear at a time. Put back the cam gear to the position you want and make sure the cam gear indicator is put next to mark on the chain, the mark that you made with the marker or whiteout.

6. Make sure there are 20 links/rollers between the chain marks and camshaft indicators.

7. Compress the tensioner, lock it and reinstall.

8. Once everything checked out, release the tensioner by pushing on it with a long wrench. You need to release the tensioner before turning it or cranking the engine in order to avoid the chain from jumping.

9. Crank over by hand and you should hear the tensioner ratcheting and taking up the slack.

10. You will need to retime the ignition if you moved the exhaust cam.

Done.


I did all of this but i am worried about the position of the distributor not allowing me to set the mechanical timing at a proper degree
2010-10-12 09:26:40
#46
Originally Posted by D-Unit121

I did all of this but i am worried about the position of the distributor not allowing me to set the mechanical timing at a proper degree


It sounds like your exhaust and intake are properly timed relative to one another, but they may be one tooth off relative to the crank. Did you use zip ties or mark the pulley and the chain to make sure that the cam pulleys and chain were reassembled in the same locations?

You can double check by turning the crank pulley clockwise until it is at TDC ensuring no chain slack between the crank and the exhaust cam (the TDC with the lobes for #1 pointing away from the engine). If the exhaust sprocket key is at dead at 12 o'clock, the crank and exhaust cam are timed properly. If it's past 12 o'clock, then you are off. If it's past 12 o'clock, you need to move the chain relative to the sprocket for both cams.
2010-10-12 12:02:37
#47
Just remember people if your crank sprocket is off one tooth, that makes the cams off by 20 degrees of mechanical timing and the car runs like total crap. It's hard to ignore.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-08-21 at 12-37-06.
2010-10-12 12:55:16
#48
Originally Posted by Autech


end thread.


Originally Posted by billc
It sounds like your exhaust and intake are properly timed relative to one another, but they may be one tooth off relative to the crank. Did you use zip ties or mark the pulley and the chain to make sure that the cam pulleys and chain were reassembled in the same locations?

You can double check by turning the crank pulley clockwise until it is at TDC ensuring no chain slack between the crank and the exhaust cam (the TDC with the lobes for #1 pointing away from the engine). If the exhaust sprocket key is at dead at 12 o'clock, the crank and exhaust cam are timed properly. If it's past 12 o'clock, then you are off. If it's past 12 o'clock, you need to move the chain relative to the sprocket for both cams.


i did all that
2010-10-12 13:37:19
#49
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Just remember people if you crank sprocket is off one tooth, that makes the cams off by 20 degrees of mechanical timing and the car runs like total crap. It's hard to ignore.
Could it make a VE feel like a GA16? if so, then thats most likely my friends problem.
2010-10-12 19:25:59
#50
Originally Posted by D-Unit121
not to try and jack a thread but i saw this thread and my dizzy sits ~15* off but mine is turned to look like it is retarding my timing. my intake matches the diagram at 5 links from the head to the dowel but my exhaust side is 8 when the diagram says it should be 9? I have 20 links between dowel to dowel. I have a 96 200sx dizzy and it is turned all the way retarded and i am at 21* of timing?



I did all of this but i am worried about the position of the distributor not allowing me to set the mechanical timing at a proper degree



It was hard for me to understand your question. You are using different terms to describe things.

In the example diagram provided by Autech, the intake should have 5 cam gear teeth and 9 teeth for the exhaust. There should be 20 rollers/linksbetween the cam gear indicators/dots. The camshafts dowel pins are not pictured. They are in the center of the camshafts next to the camshaft bolt if you look at the actual picture.

Now that we are clear on the terms, I assume when you say the distributor is turned all the way retarded (the distributor was pulled all the way toward the front of the car) you can't retard it anymore and getting 21* with the timing light?

If so, I would say you cam timing is off. The both camshafts are advanced 20* crank angle or one tooth off. Take a look at the pictures from the first post of this thread, that's how it suppose to be.
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