Thread: is this correct timing setup?

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Making sure the exhaust side down ot crank gear is of utmost importance, imho.

When I had issues, I popped my cover and the cams were correctly timed but my dizzy would show 15* almost all the way advanced.

I took the exhaust cam gear off an put it back on and the timing went almost back to normal. I had the chain tight from intake gear to exhaust gear and exhaust side down to crank gear when I re-did this whole operation.

I even went so far as to retard the exhaust cam gear one tooth and tried to manually crank the engine, no dice. I moved it back and cranked it over almost 20 times. That satisfied me and I put everything back together. It has been right as rain since.

Thanks, both of you, for your responses.

You had it right the first time, now you are off by one tooth on both cams.

Before doing anything to the camshafts, always, always, always, always first put the engine to #1 TDC of the compression stroke. Everything is referenced off of the #1 TDC ie cam timing, ignition timing, fuel injection timing.

I don't feel like repeating so here what I wrote for adjustable cam gears, it still applies for your case.




All bets are off if the crank pulley if defective, where the outer pulley is able to torque against the inner because the rubber insulator has deteriorated.

not to try and jack a thread but i saw this thread and my dizzy sits ~15* off but mine is turned to look like it is retarding my timing. my intake matches the diagram at 5 links from the head to the dowel but my exhaust side is 8 when the diagram says it should be 9? I have 20 links between dowel to dowel. I have a 96 200sx dizzy and it is turned all the way retarded and i am at 21* of timing?



I did all of this but i am worried about the position of the distributor not allowing me to set the mechanical timing at a proper degree

It sounds like your exhaust and intake are properly timed relative to one another, but they may be one tooth off relative to the crank. Did you use zip ties or mark the pulley and the chain to make sure that the cam pulleys and chain were reassembled in the same locations?

You can double check by turning the crank pulley clockwise until it is at TDC ensuring no chain slack between the crank and the exhaust cam (the TDC with the lobes for #1 pointing away from the engine). If the exhaust sprocket key is at dead at 12 o'clock, the crank and exhaust cam are timed properly. If it's past 12 o'clock, then you are off. If it's past 12 o'clock, you need to move the chain relative to the sprocket for both cams.

Just remember people if your crank sprocket is off one tooth, that makes the cams off by 20 degrees of mechanical timing and the car runs like total crap. It's hard to ignore.

i did all that

Could it make a VE feel like a GA16? if so, then thats most likely my friends problem.

It was hard for me to understand your question. You are using different terms to describe things.

In the example diagram provided by Autech, the intake should have 5 cam gear teeth and 9 teeth for the exhaust. There should be 20 rollers/linksbetween the cam gear indicators/dots. The camshafts dowel pins are not pictured. They are in the center of the camshafts next to the camshaft bolt if you look at the actual picture.

Now that we are clear on the terms, I assume when you say the distributor is turned all the way retarded (the distributor was pulled all the way toward the front of the car) you can't retard it anymore and getting 21* with the timing light?

If so, I would say you cam timing is off. The both camshafts are advanced 20* crank angle or one tooth off. Take a look at the pictures from the first post of this thread, that's how it suppose to be.