Thread: *Help* Low power SR20VE with N1's

Morning Guys...

Took my car to the dyno a few weeks back and got some disappointing numbers.



My Set-up.

N1 Cams +4 -4
65mm TB (Ported SR20VE intake)
SSAC Header (2.5 Inch)
2.5 Inch Exhaust
SRI Intake (With Velocity Stack)
300ZX MAF
Nistune (My own Custom Tune, Willing to share for input)
Lightweight Flywheel (F1 Racing)
JGY Pulleys (4Pc)

I was told to expect 190Hp on this dyno so it looks like my set-up is down on power, Hopefully the forum can help me sort it out.

On the dyno, I was told I’m running lean. I set the car up for 13.5 – 13.7 at WOT with 28 Degrees advance. I have since changed this to 13.1 -12.8 with 33 degrees advance.
I also need to replace my Distributor Cap and rotor as they are badly worn, I also think I am running the incorrect plugs, I replaced them when I first got the motor and used the wrong Items (BPR7ES) should be Bkr6e-11 correct? I will get the correct plug this week.

I have checked the cam timing just to make sure and I have done a compression test, I’m not convinced the cam timing is incorrect but will to change it to test. It wasn’t set on the dyno but I logged data the same day on the nistune system with the cam’s at 0.0 +2.-2 and +4.-4 and got the highest TP reading and MAF Voltage reading at +4.-4 but the test’s are not as accurate as a dyno.

Thanks Guys for the help hopefully we can sort it out.

Also wanted to add, The car return good fuel economy, Has no stumble’s of flat spots, I see not sign’s of detonation on the plugs and she always runs on 95 Octane fuel.

The car performs great will easily show a Golf 5\6 GTI off. She preformed great with the stock cam's (Did a 15.5 1\4 mile pass in PTA (4,170 ft) above sea level)the only changes, I have made are SR16VE N1 cams and CS Gears from GregV, 65mm TB (Intake needs to be ported better), K\N Filter with velocity stack and SR16 gearbox

I made 171whp with 3inch exhaust, ssac, de maf, n1 cams, and jwt intake.

Sorry to hear, I remember how mad I was after putting down those low numbers.

Your torque output looks better then mine was though.

Hope you get things sorted out.

Thanks Dudeman..

Also thinking of going with a 3inch exhuast to help the header. can I ask what degree your cam's are at? Also What ECU you have?

Thanks

I have a calum realtime, with cams +0-0

After replacing my stock de maf with an n60, deleting my oem cat, buying a 3inch intake pipe, and the "budget" header, I put down what is on my sig with a little tuning.

Overall the car feels about the same, just allot louder and if you figure in the cost for all of these upgrades it is not much better at all. However the second dyno was more accurate (reads lower) and was at a higher altitude.

Dudeman

wheres your timing at? both cams activating?

Maybe try a leak down test? Might be possible the motor doesnt have great ring seal. Heard that happens if the motor wasnt broken in properly.

Sorry forgot to add that info. I’m switching both cam's at 5000Rpm.

I’m running 24 Degree's before switch and 28 degree's after, But I have since changed this to 33 degree's after and the car does feel stronger (Butt Dyno) also with the extra fuel, I don’t "Feel" the step-up anymore onto the high lifts of the N1's.

I must check that both cam’s are activating, I haven’t done that

Check Comp and leak down are OK.

LOL. ok.

I'm with javcrodgz here. How sure are you both cams are switching?