Thread: FIRST Start Up!

So i just finish swapping the ve into my b14. but before i get to far ahead of myself... i dont have a ve ecu/jwt tuned ecu. i still have my stock de ecu... i have ordered an ecu from jim wolf, but wanted to make sure the motor turned over and was told the engine would still run with the de ecu in it. so i have all the fluids in the car, all the wires hooked up, new plugs, wires, hoses, fuel/oil filter, starter hooked up, all grounds connected, fuel pump engages, i have spark... etc.

The Distributor:
I followed the instructions on here and on the sr20forum to wire up the plug to make the ve distributor work with my harness. and it works.

Question/Problem:
when i try to start the motor, the starter pops and spins the fuel pump works, but the motor just cranks and cranks, kinda slow. now if i take off a spark plug wire the car cranks right over, a little rough until i put the plug wire back on, but then it evens out. now i understand that without the proper tune and ecu the car wont be finished and will run rich, but why will it turn over when i unplug a spark plug wire? and onto my second problem... none of the cluster guages work, and when i put the key in the ignition and put it into the auxilary position none of the lights turn on like they used to, like the seat belt light, the oil pressure light, the engine light, or any others for that split second, and then when the car was cranked over the tach didnt work. it seem nothing works on the cluster.

Im hoping its just the ecu not being the right one for the motor and all. if it please tell me, if its not lemme know your ideas.

Thanks,
Phil

There is a resistor in the B14 harness that you had to remove, I think the VE dizzy has it internally. That's the only thing I can think of.

I hope you didnt fry your ECU. Good luck

where is the resistor at?
and no i didnt remove it. i hope not either. but it doesnt really matter i dont need it either way.

Follow the Green wire / coil wire from the original B14 distributor 2-wire plug harness to the resistor, a small gray rectangular item. Once you find it, eliminate it.

sounds like you forgot something, did you plug back in all the connectors you un-plugged for your swap? there are three plugs under the battery tray that i forgot to plug in and my dash did the same thing.

okay and what do these plugs look like, my battery was taken out and relocated, therefore no tray and everything is in in different places.

and just solder the two wires together? thats it? because i did find it. i feel like an idiot, its in plain view about 10-12 in from the dizzy.

the 3 plugs under the battery tray he's talkin about are usualy on a bracket mounted to the frame under where the battery tray would be, above the transmission.. even if they've been moved they must still be in the area cause they cant stretch far unless you add wire.. well atleast on a b13/p10 anyway...

Yes, you can just peel the cover off the two cables and join them without even cutting them. Current will take the path with less resistence and completely ignore the resistor.

If you dont like the sound of that, yes, cut the resistor and solder the wires together.

Remember that you can also simply use your old B14 distributor, cut the lower screw tab and use your original untouched B14 harness. I'm surprised how nobody has argued how better / simpler that is and how you can easier get replacement parts for your B14 distributor, which, in fact, is true.

fuel lines hooked up correctly?