Thread: super retard dizzy to get normal timing

i think that idles a bit high to accurately set the timing.. and ya that looks way more advanced then 15.. mines at 15 but yet u can see a sliver of light on the left side of the bolt..

The consult II made the idle raise when I placed it in Ignition Timing Adjustment mode with the press of a button.

I believe you're supposed to put it in timing mode THEN adjust your idle. Restart, rev it a few times, put it in timing mode again THEN set your base timing.

According the the Nissan FSM, when you use Consult, it is not necessary to turn the car on and off.

In fact, when you turn the car off, it breaks the connection between the Consult unit and the car when you turn it off.

Rev it a few times only has to do with timing mod without help through the Consult port.

That is the exact location of the dist on all the cars I had to do what I described above. Your timing is retarded one tooth on the crank. Do what I said and enjoy how the car is supposed to run

I believe you. Let me first say that. Thanks for helping me figure out my problem with my car.

Your explanation is a work around to the problem. I hate doing things this way. I understand that this is the probable scenario. How about I just change the crank pulley and get rid of the two piece design and replace it with a one piece crank pulley such as an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley?

This would give me the proper timing and I would not have to change my cam timing.

Also, stock ECU's will eat advanced timing (with proper fuel) and almost always give you good results until you get to 21 or 22*. I ran 19-20* for years and had zero problems with stock ECU's. With the JWT ECU, it wants 15* and now I can barely get back to there because of this problem. I dont know what caused this. I did not do it because I reset the timing had that first startup vidoe that you see back to 15* and it was properly positioned. Now, I cant get it back there.

No you still have to change your cam timing. The crank pully has nothing to do with it if totaled200ser is correct. It is the crank chain sprocket so the only realistic way to fix is to change the timing up top. I would use a degree wheel and a dial gauge to make sure the engine is at TDC (unless you're sure your crank pully is fine and you can use that) and then set up the cam timing using the guide that shows how many links each side of the cam sprocket timing marks. This should put you where you're meant to be.

Tbh it's more trouble than it's worth if you run a daughterboard ECU. 15 degrees base idle timing is all you need. If you're using a stock ecu and wish to take advantage of higher static ignition timing, correct mechanical timing is absolutely a must.

I'm anal though, so knowing my exhaust cam is off a tooth would bother me. Think about the intake cam being at the correct position, now you aren't really at 15 degrees. The intake could be at say 18-19 degrees while the exhaust is at 15. KWIM?

im like that also, if i know somethings not right it'll eat at the back of my head until i do something about it lol.. my gf's g20 is a nightmare of a machine.. somethings always leakin somewhere or something... an if it aint one thing its another.. drives me bananas.. its behaving itself right now thank god (knock on wood) an since i've set it up the way i last mentioned in this thread its been running alot better.. its night an day from how it was with that super advanced timing.. i keep meaning to take a pic of it but i either am at work or the gf is at school wit the car lol..

viprdude. it would be worth lookin into what these guys are sayin, if even just to come back an let em know that wasnt the problem.. altho it is truely weird that it only does it with the jwt ecu.. so idk..

But you have to mention that the intake and exhaust cams will both have to be advanced when the engine is at tdc. He is off on the crank one tooth. In order to fix that without pulling the front cover is to do it with the cams. move each towards the firewall one tooth, the colored marks don't mean anything at this point. count the number of links when doing this and make sure that is correct. Rotate the cams to 10 and 12 and crank the engine over by hand to release the tensioner and make sure you have done this correctly.. This essentially moves the crank one link without touching the crank and pulling the front cover. If you don't understand this, read about how many revolutions the cams make in relation to the crank. This can happen on a de and not a ve because there is no room to skip a tooth on the crank on a ve.
You should start your own thread viperdude since this does not apply to lynch. DOes anyone understand this?
And yes this has nothing to do with the crank pulley if it is ok so stop being lazy and get to work. Viperdude, your way makes no sense with switching the pulleys because you have a crank pulley and a crank sprocket. The pulley has the marks for timing you ignition and the sprocket has the mark fpr your chain. I meant to quote Viperdude also but messed up.