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Thread: super retard dizzy to get normal timing

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Posts: 41-50 of 67
2010-08-03 12:59:19
#41
Take a pic of where the dizzy is if you can. It should not be that far either way. I believe when the cam swap was done, the crank was off one tooth but it looked correct up top. Have seen this many times as I had to figure out how to fix it on my own, so I made the corrections to other people with this problem or told them how to fix it. It is not a hard fix, but you will have to remove the cam gears and tensioner assy or wood block it. I know you have a timing problem as the difference between 15* & 19* is not much of an adjustment on the dizzy.
2010-08-03 15:30:56
#42
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
Take a pic of where the dizzy is if you can. It should not be that far either way. I believe when the cam swap was done, the crank was off one tooth but it looked correct up top. Have seen this many times as I had to figure out how to fix it on my own, so I made the corrections to other people with this problem or told them how to fix it. It is not a hard fix, but you will have to remove the cam gears and tensioner assy or wood block it. I know you have a timing problem as the difference between 15* & 19* is not much of an adjustment on the dizzy.


The physical location of the dizzy is not a good reference point since both top and the bottom slide. My dizzy can look different than your dizzy and both would be mechanically set to 15*. I have seen this dozens of times.
2010-08-04 00:38:52
#43
Another thing, if it was the exhaust cam, the Consult would have shown me wrong timing on the crank pulley when I check it with a light gun. When I use the Nissan Consult II to bring the car into timing mode, it works. And the correct timing is shown and I can make my adjustments. I know the cams are set properly. These fuckers did not skip a tooth.

Powers, out.
2010-08-04 00:59:47
#44
YouTube - viprdude's Channel
at 14 seconds this video shows your dist location. That is not 15* I don't think you really know what I am talking about. It's your car so drive it how you want, it isn't my car and I have no idea.
2010-08-04 01:01:54
#45
Originally Posted by totaled200ser

at 14 seconds this video shows your dist location. That is not 15*


That is not where it is set right now. I see light through the forward and rear part of the slots on the top. I know it was off in that video. I used a Consult unit a few weeks or a month after this install.

If the exhaust cam was off, the timing would not jump to the correct timing number, sit there for ten seconds, and then advance itself. When I plug the TPS back in and wait 5 seconds and disconnect it, the timing will show the correct value for 3 or 4 seconds and then jump itself up past the 20* mark.

I understand what you are saying about it going forward in relation to the exhaust cam.
2010-08-04 01:09:45
#46
Maybe you have a ground somewhere in not such good of shape? Did you try another distributor? I just saw that vid and knew it was off there.
2010-08-04 01:32:29
#47
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
Maybe you have a ground somewhere in not such good of shape? Did you try another distributor? I just saw that vid and knew it was off there.


I have not checked all my grounds or tried another distributor. I have no spares to try.

How should it be orientated? Right now, it is advanced further than in the video. The dizzy top slot is almost covered by the washer and there is more light of the slot towards the firewall of the car. More advanced than in that picture.

What is your thoughts? If the timing chain jumped a tooth on the exhaust sprocket, it would constantly show the timing incorrectly and it does not constantly do it. It does it consistently but not constantly. That and when I use something plugged into consult and go into timing mode using that, that always shows the correct timing on there. Would it not be way more advanced (like it does when I unplug the TPS) when I have something through Consult port trigger timing mode?

I am not mad, you are one of few who is actively helping me and I appreciate all help!
2010-08-04 10:44:17
#48
What you see in consult will always read 15* if I am not mistaken, since it is where you have it set on the comp as base timing. the consult is not a timing light and this a mechanical dizzy that can be moved and your consult will read 15*, try it. but your mechanical timing may be off and I need to see a pic to be sure, can you get me that? Since you are saying that the timing is retarded by indicating that there is much more space by the firewall and the dizzy is almost all the way forward to get 15*. I am not saying your off on the cam timing, but the crank, the cams will still look spot on perfect. You can correct this without removing the timing cover. Since you want the dist more towards the middle, you need to advance both intake and exhaust cams one tooth, toward the firewall to make up for the crank being off one tooth. You will want the notches for the cams to be in the same position at 10 and 12 so remove the tensioner so that you have slack and move the chain toward the firewall one tooth on each cam. I believe that you are going to have to remove the cam gears to do this and then turn the cams with a wrench to 10 & 12. They will be at 10 & 12 but this will move the dist towards the middle physically to be at 15*. It should always be somewhere near the center. Even at 20* I have ran before it wasn't even close to where you are describing. I had this issue on my 95 years ago when I first did a cam swap and it drove me nuts. I had the shop foreman trying to help and he gave me some ideas but couldn't figure it out either. The car was a whole different animal after that. I had gotten used to it the way it was and drove it for almost 2 months like that and said I guess that is the way it is. But I was wrong, way wrong. Crank the engine over by hand just to make sure but I believe I told you how to fix it... try it, it couldn't hurt. Just remember crank by hand. Once this happends your timing mode should stay on target because the computer is not trying to correct itself anymore. Let me know if you understand what I am saying. When thinking about it, understand that the dist is directly connected to the exhaust cam and since cam timing looks right up top but your dist is all the way forward I know it is on the crank it is off. Set the dist towards the middle before you fire it up to start. Crank by hand first to make sure you did it right, the tensioner should do its job while cranking by hand and you should have a car that runs correctly. Ask me any questions you need and tell me if you get what I mean before trying it. I have talked many people through this so they did not have to pull the whole front cover off. The marks might not line up on the chain but that doesn't matter. Two teeth on the cam the same direction= one on the crank.
Drew
2010-08-04 14:30:52
#49
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
What you see in consult will always read 15* if I am not mistaken, since it is where you have it set on the comp as base timing. the consult is not a timing light and this a mechanical dizzy that can be moved and your consult will read 15*, try it. but your mechanical timing may be off and I need to see a pic to be sure, can you get me that?


Yes, consult always reads it as 15* per the ECU. I know this never changes, I merely use the consult to get the car into timing mode properly so I CAN check the timing with my light gun. When I use this method, it always shows the correct timing when I use my light gun, unless it is super far off. But at least I can make adjustments.

Isn't this advanced a lot?


2010-08-04 15:55:57
#50
Went back to the Nissan place and used the Consult to see what it was reading. I made zero adjustments. What you see in the picture is what it is currently placed on the vehicle.

Using my timing light gun, the timing was right on 15* with the dizzy at this location. The idle was around 1050-1150 which is high, to be honest.

Let me know your thoughts.
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