Thread: B15ve Swap

I asked because I don't know how to wire the IACV to make it work.

I noticed something else today:
1. I already mentioned that car drives like poop until it warms up (just mentioning this again).
2. SAFC shows that throttle is open between 2%-3% during warm up. After car is warmed up Throttle is 0%.
3. At WOT i only get a fluctuating 85%-86% open throttle.
4. Car hesitates when i open throttle. It starts pulling hard after like 1.5k to 2k RPM.

In short my opinion is that I am having issues with my TPS and car is running lean as was shown on my dyno sheet. I wonder if these 2 issues can attribute to such shitty numbers?

I told you at the dyno meet and on the forums twice now, here is the third time.

That wideband was not plugged in. Mine read the same exact thing. It is a static reading that has nothing to do with your car.

What ecu do you have?

He's using a Jwt programmed for a e60 maf and sr16 cams and he's using a safc.

As long as that JWT computer is indeed programmed for that SR20VE engine and the E60 MAF, ijnectors, all that stuff, than the Air fuels are good.

You can send JWT an email to comfirm the program. You have to take the ECU out, open the lid, take the JWT board out, flip it over and read or take a picture of the program hand written on the chip.

You give them that information and they can tell you everything about the program. Unless you know it is for or it is written right on the label or something obvious like that. I really loved this car and want to see it running 100%.

Have you changed the coolant temp. sensor? That is pretty easy to do.

I called JWT a while ago and confirmed that they programmed the ECU for my setup.

I checked my CEL codes today. I had 4.

1. P1320 - Distributor signal interrupt
2. P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
3. P0120 - TPS A Circuit
4. P0136 - O2 Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

I cleared the codes. Afterwords I only got one.
P1320 - Distributor Signal Interrupt

I tried to adjust the TPS:
Voltage at closed throttle was various numbers like .35 to .6
I could not get it to 4.2 at full throttle even when the TPS was adjusted all the way. At WOT the hand scanner would show 71% and sometime 90.9% open Throttle. The SAFC showed higher open throttle numbers. When the hand scanner would shot 71%, the SAFC would show 85%.
I swapped the TPS that was on the B15 TB. The voltages were slight closer to spec, but couldn't get there. When closed thottle was at .5 at WOT it was like 3.6V. I swapped that one over anyway. When i drove with the "new" TPS at WOT I hit 100% open throttle, but on the hand scanner it was like in the 70s%, which is odd.


My MAF reading was .23 to .26 lb/min - Is that okay?

Here is what i got from search the P1320:

p1320 - Ignition coil & power transistor (Built into distributor) The ignition coil is a small molded type. The ignition signal from the ECM is sent to the power transistor. The power transistor switches on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. As the primary circuit is turned on and off, the proper high voltage is induced in the coil secondary circuit.

Andreas said in the same thread as the top one "P1320 should be bad distributor"

- Should i really get a new distributor. The maxima guys are changing their coils to fix this problem. Should i change the spark plugs first?

I would just change the dist,but that's just my 02.

Try another distributor!

I just ordered a distributor. I think this time i am gonna cut the ear off rather than making a hybrid distributor. I am thinking the insides of a distributor are too sensitive to swap around.
Another code came back today. It was one of the four before i cleared the codes.

P0136

Should i change the rear O2 sensor? Should i check other things before changing it that could be throwing that code?

- I changed the rear O2 sensor and the code "P0136" is gone.

- I put in an afpr.

- I changed the distributor. This time we just cut trimmed down the ear instead of making a hybrid. I am still getting the "P1320" code.

Anyone have any ideas why i'm still getting that code?

I also confirmed that i am running rich. My Gas Light turned on when i hit about 210 miles. I didn't hit VVL once during that time.

An afpr will run you rich, your mileage will tank, unless the computer was updated for that, or you adjusted the flow rate accordingly on the regulator itself.