Thread: COOLING ISSUES... help

Ive Used 4 New T-stats And Nothing..

I Order 2 From Greg A Stock Vvl One And Higher Temp One.. Hopefully.

anybody have the fsm way on how to bleed the system. i got a new thermostat so i know the thermostat is good. I also bleed the system but i want to try bleeding it the fsm way maybe it will work better and get everything to work right. Thanks guys

I'd imagine the FSM directions would be found in the FSM.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/13805-fsms.html

lol i remember i fixed this once.. but it was the method i bled it and i did not use fsm... it was suppose to be in a certain order... this is horrible............ i shouldnt be delayin with this anymore..now i can admit this is kickin my ass.

wingman i pressure tested it again today and found tiny leak by water neck.. very minimal but never the less a leak.... i tightened it more an it closed off had only 20 mins to bleed had to run to chicks house..... temp still dont reach middle.. and takes 10-15 mins to warm up at a dead stop after driving more the 20 mins...

wingmans patience is like of a monk

never seen this thread and its not like i can search fsm but thank you for the link ill check it out

No worries. Didn't mean to sound harsh, but FSMs are the one thing I think everyone working on their car should have. The fact that they're free, and downloadable in PDF makes it a no-brainer to me And the lack of being able to search 3-letter words is annoying. (Points to Server News thread :rofl

If anyone having this issue could document what temperatures they're actually running at, and what the needle position is at each approx temperature, that would bust this case wide open and really start us moving again.

its cool no prob and the fsm way is quite confusing to me. But i know my car is going to cold because when it goes to cold it drives differently. Like the car goes warm but if i rev the gas the gauge moves a little cold and back and then once i start driving like around 20mph it starts going down to cold. I would guess that it was the thermostat stuck open but i see thats not the case seeing how i went through three. I think it can be the that the system isnt bleeding properly. Quick question if the car is warm and u remove the bleeder screw is coolant supposed to spill out constantly? In my car it doesnt so im thinking its not bleeding right

Yes, coolant should actually be spraying from the bleeder screw if you remove it when warm.

With the car cold, remove the bleeder screw and pour coolant into the radiator until coolant flows out of the bleeder screw port on the thermostat housing. Then cap the bleeder port off. This assures that you have nothing but solid coolant from the radiator to the thermostat. Once you do this, start the car with the radiator cap off and let it get to operating temps (heater on full blast) When the thermostat opens, the coolant is going to be cycled thru the back of the motor and you'll need to keep topping off the radiator. When you don't see bubbles coming up to the neck of the radiator anymore, and the coolant is starting to flow out from the top, it's bled properly. Cap it off and make sure your hoses don't pressurize too much.

My issue turned out to be a bad radiator cap.

This is exatly what i did but i dunno ..im going to try one more time maybe the more i do it the better it gets well see ill let you guys know

Rain delay in miami