Thread: crank pulley damper

ok so im about to change my crank pulley as im of the impression that it has slipped at the rubber damper. question is how will i kno that the one im gettin (used) hasnt also slipped. is there anyone with a pic of a stock crank pulley which clearly shows the timing marks set up in relations to the crank shaft key notch......

what will be installed. ket grove looks to be inline with the first timing notch

The keyway slot on mine lines up right between the first and second timing marks. Either way, you can stick a long screw driver or extension in number 1 cylinder to make sure that the second mark on the pulley lines up at TDC.

Well dang...checked my pulley today. At TDC, keyway slot does not line up with any marks. I put a long screwdriver in cylinder 1 also.

The pulley is toast, mine did that too so I threw on the one from my mint SR16VE I had lucky me.

Can someone help me out with the OEM crank pulley part number for the sr20ve

Thanks
Cesar

Here's my bad crank pulley. You can see the keyway does not line up with any of the timing marks. It's almost 180* out. Luckily I had a spare 20V pulley.

So, double check your crank pulley since our motors are almost 20 years old, and they are a two piece design separated by a rubber dampener.

This happens famously in the DE as well.

It happened to me in my 97 SE-R w/ DE and stock pulley. Driving down the road I hear a buncha noise under the hood, then it stops and I look behind me and see the outer portion of the crank pulley rolling down the road. Got a G-Spec underdrive which is 1 piece and never looked back.

perhaps you should consider a G-Spec too. gain maybe 1HP and lose a bit of weight. OEM VE crank pulleys are not easy to come by.

Your case is an extreme. Where the outer pulley is rolling down the road, wow.

With my bad pulley, I even intentionally tried to separate the two halves with a hammer. It was a no go. Outward appearance was normal. The rubber section didn't show any sign of dry rot, cracks or anything. I caught the misalignment when trying to put the engine at tdc to set the cam timing.

As to the running a light one piece aluminum crank pulley, I wouldn't recomend it. One of our crew member ran one and he ended up messing up his crank.

There are a bunch of theories about running a light weight aluminum pulley on the internet so I'll spare you mine. However, something to think about, the N1 and 20V, 20VET all run the heavier crank pulley than the 20VE. They all rev higher than the regular VE.

Yes I know about all of that. Though as you know our engines are less prone to those problems with it's balancing. I am going to knock on wood RIGHT THIS SECOND but I've been running both the lightweight crank and water pump pulleys on my VE that sees at least 7800RPM every time I drive it and it runs like a champ.

(back from knocking on wood)