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Thread: tri -y headers

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Posts: 411-420 of 440
2013-12-29 16:36:48
#411
^^ looking good
2013-12-30 03:14:37
#412
Nice. Have any of you guys tried the 4-1 Honda header and modified it? My buddy just got a VE classic so debating on taking on welding up one of these as a practice for myself with my new welder along with helping him out since he has a stock header on it. Planning on replicating the same header the PR boys are running with the PLM collector.
2014-01-04 21:19:56
#413
Originally Posted by nismo94tuner
Nice. Have any of you guys tried the 4-1 Honda header and modified it? My buddy just got a VE classic so debating on taking on welding up one of these as a practice for myself with my new welder along with helping him out since he has a stock header on it. Planning on replicating the same header the PR boys are running with the PLM collector.


Wish I could run open header on the street!
I wanted to get the PLM collector but decided not too after some members said there no good with a full exhaust. I started with 2.25" pipe for the collector outlet and bumped up the size up the pipe to 3" using a few pieces of pipe using an expander.

Last edited by Haulin200sx on 2014-01-04 at 21-24-04.
2014-01-04 21:51:56
#414
Originally Posted by Haulin200sx
Originally Posted by nismo94tuner
Nice. Have any of you guys tried the 4-1 Honda header and modified it? My buddy just got a VE classic so debating on taking on welding up one of these as a practice for myself with my new welder along with helping him out since he has a stock header on it. Planning on replicating the same header the PR boys are running with the PLM collector.


Wish I could run open header on the street!
I wanted to get the PLM collector but decided not too after some members said there no good with a full exhaust. I started with 2.25" pipe for the collector outlet and bumped up the size up the pipe to 3" using a few pieces of pipe using an expander.



what reason was given as to why the plm collector wouldn't work with a full exhaust?
2014-01-13 13:07:16
#415
i still have my tri Y still pulls hard.
2014-06-27 12:30:21
#416
Originally Posted by joelosr20
Originally Posted by mercado


looking at that pic i can see that the 2 straight tubes are in the center (2 and 3 cylinder) And compared to this one wich is the tri-y fitted to B series engine the straight tubes are one after other (3 & 4 cylinder)


You changed order in the tubes like the 3 cylinder with the 1 cyliinder for what i can see to make it fit... Its true what i'm thinking??




Can I just weld the sr20ve flange on the tri y headers... why change the order of the tubes?
2014-06-27 12:58:41
#417
I think it has something to do with clearing the alt and ac. I have a honda 4:1 but i didnt make it. Pulls hard uptop.
2014-06-27 13:12:44
#418
It has to do with firing order and no you can't just cut the Honda flange off and weld on a sr20 one. The header piping needs to be adjusted to fit and the exhaust port spacing is not the same. I have made a few different ve headers and it's a good deal of work to do it right. This is why a good header cost more $.
2014-06-30 11:40:59
#419
Originally Posted by se200
It has to do with firing order and no you can't just cut the Honda flange off and weld on a sr20 one. The header piping needs to be adjusted to fit and the exhaust port spacing is not the same. I have made a few different ve headers and it's a good deal of work to do it right. This is why a good header cost more $.




Well I don't have a/c and I I have a honda half size radiator so space ain't a problem I thought they didn't because of oil pan... ill be the FIRST to try it ... let see how important that change is.. he how the car runs..

Unless u guys did that already?
2014-07-01 11:46:17
#420
Your not the first to try it. You can force it but the honda header won't fit without lots of work, I have done this a few times and have also made one from scratch. If your using the honda header to save $ then get the super cheap 4-1 header and cut it up for the parts.
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