Thread: Weird starting issues...

Actually thinking of it. I checked the ecu for codes and it came out to 4,3 I think. Maybe thats what it is. I might as well swap it out for the f*ck of it. I'll try that out.

Johny, any chance you still making those custom secondaries?

I would try water temp

^The ignitor/coil could be a possibility also. My fuel pump kicked on normal as well.

For the first time I agree with this guy, ect sensor will do cause issues like you are having. What is the code 4-3? Ignition coils don't go bad that often so I doubt that is it, but if it is the same one you used on the boosted car than maybe.

By the way I'm Johnys brother Ralphy.At the moment I can't make the custom secondaries cause I don't have a garage at the moment and it's to cold to make it outside.Once it warms up Ill be able to make you one.

leaking injestor or stuff aac valve

code 43 is tps from memory and that could be your fault, had a pulsar doing similar problems at work was a faulty tps

I would start by checking the tps if that is the code you got. Very easy to check with a multimeter.

Bad FPR cause hard starts? I thought a bad water temp sensor would cause the fans to kick on, not make it hard to crank. I cleaned my IACV and Air Regular before my swap. I only have about 300 miles on the swap at the moment. Car didn't start doing this till a few days ago.



^Found this from another thread. So I just turn my car to the on position and see if the injectors leak with the rail off?

Thats the weird thing. The tps code came on only once. Once I reset the ecu it went away and didn't come back. I had to wire in a new tps connector from a NX2000 which the wires were a different color. I just used the pins/colored wires on the connector of the old one to wire the new one. I am pretty sure it is wired correctly adjusted to .44-.45V.

The coil however is still the same one back from when I was boosted.



Oh man definately thought you were Johny all along. I'll be hittin you up later on once it warms up, I don't feel like swapping secondaries in this 6* weather we have.


On another note guys, the car has always had the check engine light flashing on and off. This is back from when I used the DE ecu and maf. I then went with my current ecu programmed for the correct injectors, maf, etc. The CEL would always flash whether it was idling or driving. The car would idle high as hell (roughly 2500-2800rpm's). I can't adjust the cold idle though since I am using the DE throttle body. It would then warm up and sit right at 800 without a hiccup. Car always ran fine. I am going to run out and grab a coolant temp sensor and swap it out. Can't do it today due to lack of daylight and the freezing cold. Hopefully it works!