Thread: Starting, high idle, dies

OK so the VE is running! YAY! Got everything worked through as far as 'pre startup' is concerned. Now, I start the car, it revs up to 3k (and loudly I might add! lol), runs for a few seconds around that mark, then drops like a stone to 200-700 for 1/2 second, sputters, then dies.

Tried the ecu, came back with a code 12 (air circuit malfunction). I measured the voltages on my maf plug, 12v on the red wire, ground checks out, and .011V on the read wire with the vehicle off but ignition on. I also just rechecked miko's maf wiring guide, and it's wired correctly.

Further info: Calum requested I use a e60 instead of an n60 maf. Also, the ecu I sent him requesting the b13 program was from an old g20. It attached fine to the harness. I did also switch the ect sensor from my nx engine to the VE one as required.

hows the fuel... not sure of the readings of the maf

fuel's fine - unless there is a way to connect the lines backwards (which I dont think would let it even run if that's the case).

I can keep the car running if I keep my foot on the gas, but idle bounces around like a fat guy on a treadmill

The high idle and then dying sounds like the idle adjuster thingy that those have is set all wrong. I think what happens is it idles high then when the was melts it brings the idle down or something. Have you tinkered with that at all?

I havent, you mean the white screw on the iacv? Because no, I haven't monkeyd with that at all but it's not like it idles high like it's cold, then slowly comes down to the right rpm, it straight up goes up there, sits for 2 seconds jumping around a bit, then dies.

also wanted to mention that my msd isn't hooked up yet at all, but I doubt that changes anything

check for a leak behind the maf. Then unplug it and see if the car will idle.

Check the cold idle screw underneath the throttle body for the high idle at the start. Mine was at 3k for a while until i fixed the piece that was bent. It could just need adjusted. It drops after the coolant temp rises and the plunger retracts lowering the idle back to the responsibility of the IACV screw. The bouncing happens when the different temp coolant flows through to the plunger.

Most likely the car is just stalling out toward normal idle at that point. Id definitely start with the IACV after that. Also check the voltage on your TPS. I know when mine was off, after the bounce of the idle it would drop down and stall instead of just catching the rpms and balancing out.

ok! updates aplenty - I tested all the continuity on the maf plug wires, the aac and the ficd plugs - all are wired 100%. I then ran the car with the maf plugged in - same issues. Ran the car with a different maf of the same type plugged in - same issues. Ran the car without the maf plugged in at all - ran reasonably well, decent idle, no falling flat on its face. Thoughts?

I emailed calum to ensure 100% that the ecu was programmed for an e60 maf and not an n60 or a de maf. we'll see if/when he gets back to me.

you've got the wrong maf program...99.9% sure. I had the same problem, when I unplugged the maf it ran ok, just super rich. When the maf is unplugged the ecu basically uses it's own values to try to keep the car running right. This is usually the best way to know if your ecu is programmed right unless you can look at it in tunerpro or rom editor and know what you're looking at. Problem is though, with the maf unplugged the car won't rev over like 3k-3.5k. You do still need to pressure test your intake though starting before your maf.