Thread: VVL not kicking in, any ideas as to why?

when the car gets to around kickin ass time, instead of coming alive it just kinda dies...ya hear the odd pop and bang outta the zorst with hardly any power increase...

been working spot on since the VE swap over a year ago now, hence even more confused...

have checked the solenoids by conecting them direct to the battery and ya hear a nice click, so they are fine, even removed them gave em a good clean from the inside, although looking at them they were nice n clean anyway...

cams are being activated by Greddy MSS...4600 is where both are at...

the odd thing is say if I drive around for a bit it won't work, then switch off, leave it for a bit, go for a drive again, and the car seems to run much better and will kick on....just driving me mad at the moment...


at present pretty much standard SR20VE, with fuji manifold 3" catback and CAI.

did u do a wide band check? ......sounds like a fuel issue

was on the dyno today, fueling was going mega rich around the rpm range the cams would come in....put that down to the ecu just putting in the required amount of fuel as this was the point the cams would normally kick in, but as they are not, its just ends up being mega rich....

fueling was spot on when the car was mapped last year...

this is the afr graph from when it was mapped last year...




will get todays graph scanned in and posted in sometime tomorrow....but from what I remember guy at the dyno was saying fueling was going to 9.1 around the 5000rpm mark...

heres the graph of the afr on the latest run yesterday...




suppose I was asking for it, dynoing it on Friday 13th....doh

Wow. That's an ugly afr you have there. Run your car at idle and check the solenoids at the battery. Your idle should pretty rough for both checked separately. If that checks out ok then more than likely it's an electrical issue. Check to make sure you have a good tach signal from the ecu and your mss ground is good. Check the rest to make sure they are good.

I've seen similar results on a dyno. Turned out it was the placement of the O2 sniffer tube in the exhaust pipe causing the fluctuations.

^^^^ what he said......

cheers for the advice guys, will give that a go...