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Thread: Cold weather = No VVL again...

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Posts: 1-10 of 25
2009-10-19 16:15:11
#1
Cold weather = No VVL again...
Well, I made a post last year describing a problem I was having with my car. As soon as it got warm out, the problem cleared up. But this weekend we had a cold front here in Florida, and sure enough, the problem resurfaced.

I think it could be the MAF, but im not 100% sure on it.

When you turn the car on, it immediatley starts up at 3-3500 RPMs and stays there until the car warms up, and is sitting still not moving. The VVL also does not work.

another thing i should mention is, every time I turn the car on, even in warmer weather, the car has to find it's idle point, it revs between 1000-1600 rpms until it has found its proper place at 800 RPMs. The VVL works every time in the warm weather, but it still has to find it's idle point.

After the car is warm in the cold weather and you turn it off, then on again, the vvl works fine.

Is it the MAF? I did solder the MAF a year ago or so because the connector came off of the board when i pulled on the plug to disconnect it.

Any theories would be appreciated!
2009-10-19 16:19:42
#2
Maybe ur IAC or Coolant temp sensor?
2009-10-19 16:27:02
#3
Originally Posted by b13seriesser
Well, I made a post last year describing a problem I was having with my car. As soon as it got warm out, the problem cleared up. But this weekend we had a cold front here in Florida, and sure enough, the problem resurfaced.

I think it could be the MAF, but im not 100% sure on it.

When you turn the car on, it immediatley starts up at 3-3500 RPMs and stays there until the car warms up, and is sitting still not moving. The VVL also does not work.

another thing i should mention is, every time I turn the car on, even in warmer weather, the car has to find it's idle point, it revs between 1000-1600 rpms until it has found its proper place at 800 RPMs. The VVL works every time in the warm weather, but it still has to find it's idle point.

After the car is warm in the cold weather and you turn it off, then on again, the vvl works fine.

Is it the MAF? I did solder the MAF a year ago or so because the connector came off of the board when i pulled on the plug to disconnect it.

Any theories would be appreciated!


get to Miami and I will fix the problem
2009-10-20 11:10:07
#4
Check your coolant temp sensor connections (2 wire) and voltage to the sensor and resistance. Mine was a bad connection caused by a broken clip on the plug (very minor) and it caused some play in the connection. It had a high hunting idle, it was choking on fuel, and no VVL. I "mickey mouse'd" the wiring and problem solved.
Good Luck.
2009-10-21 02:30:29
#5
funny this actually happend to me also.. took a few minutes of driving a gear low so i would stay around 4000 rpms then eventually they started working again.. my engine runs very cool compared to all my de's i've had, they all stayed in the middle of cold an hot the ve barley makes it past the first mark.. if i let it idle for a while on a warm day it'll get to almost half but as soon as i start drivin it drops to barely above the first mark again..

im wondering if putting a warmer thermostat in during winter if it would help the engine warm up better an stay where it needs to be


also on cold days it takes me 10-15 mins to get it past the first mark also usualy about 2 ciggerettes and its idled down but my gf's g20 an my old se-r both would warm up in about 1 ciggerette, cold or not.
2009-10-21 03:40:24
#6
what r u using to switch the vvl and what grade oil r u using
2009-10-21 03:57:07
#7
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
funny this actually happend to me also.. took a few minutes of driving a gear low so i would stay around 4000 rpms then eventually they started working again.. my engine runs very cool compared to all my de's i've had, they all stayed in the middle of cold an hot the ve barley makes it past the first mark.. if i let it idle for a while on a warm day it'll get to almost half but as soon as i start drivin it drops to barely above the first mark again..

im wondering if putting a warmer thermostat in during winter if it would help the engine warm up better an stay where it needs to be


also on cold days it takes me 10-15 mins to get it past the first mark also usualy about 2 ciggerettes and its idled down but my gf's g20 an my old se-r both would warm up in about 1 ciggerette, cold or not.


The OEM temp gauge has 3 settings; cold, operating temp, and hot.

FYI
2009-10-21 06:00:21
#8
Originally Posted by THOR
what r u using to switch the vvl and what grade oil r u using


im using the summit switch and i run 10w30 synthetic

Originally Posted by llaprad1
The OEM temp gauge has 3 settings; cold, operating temp, and hot.

FYI


well then it barely makes it past the cold spot
2009-10-21 06:26:55
#9
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
im using the summit switch and i run 10w30 synthetic



well then it barely makes it past the cold spot


bad sensor/ground or your t-stat doesn't stay closed to let it warm up.
2009-10-21 16:13:26
#10
Originally Posted by Andreas
get to Miami and I will fix the problem


I will see if i can get down there in late November. Thanks Dre!
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