Thread: Another no vvl

Iv got a gtir swaped sr20ve-t and its lacking the vvl kick.

I have tested the solenoids and everything electrical and its all working so im now assuming its an oil problem as this head is pretty greased up with old oil.

From all the threads i have read on this i have come to the conclusion that it might come right if i just keep changing the oil out and flushing at each change and give it a good run everytime i drive it. I have set my solenoids to come on at 3000 and 3500 rpm in an attempt to get oil through everything constantly to break it all down..

Im thinking i need to get some mig wire or something and poke it though all the holes going into the head for vvl to give it a helping hand.

Does anyone actually have a diagram of how the oiling system in the head works and where exactly it goes to so i can attack it good?

Iv had the vvl solenoid block off and it didnt look "that" bad to me the oil ways looked fairly clear although its clear the head has that greasy gumy oil through it. I poked around in there with a screw driver but im thinking i need to get further through to where oil pressure actually actuates the rockers?

You can pull the rocker cover to see if the engaging latches are seized up but to look inside them or remove them you need to pull the solenoid mounting off and you can look up the long shaft in the photo.

What are you using to switch the cams? How long have you had this setup?

Hopefully ill tear into this head this coming weekend. Thats good info so if i removed the big allan screws oil flows though the long pipes to the rockers?

Im using a sr16ve ecu with a daughterboard so its all stock/spliced wiring harness no mss or anything like that.

Its been running for about a month now but iv had a few bugs like this to work through with it. Hasnt really been driven much or for long periods of time.

Yeah those pipe/shaft things have holes that line up with the switches in the rockers. Having pulled the whole system apart before I'd be surprised if there was a "blockage" past the solenoids. All the passages are a decent size and the gauze filter on the inlet to the solenoids should catch anything but like you say if its really gummy old oil it might have glued up something. I'd just pull off the rocker cover and see if the little switches can be moved by hand.

yip after having a look i agree with you unlikely to be blocked passed the solenoids as theres plenty of free flowing oil in those tubes and they were clean. Im assuming the tubes dont need to be rotated to a certain position to allow the holes to let oil to the latches?

The latches move freely and easily.

I took a solenoid out of my n1 which i know is good and compared just to be sure they both move in exactly the same way which they do.

I have had a test light on the wiring to check its getting power when it should.

I have atleast 80psi of oil pressure from 3000rpm up.

The more i look at it the more im thinking i just need to drive this thing for a while and it might come right.

I figure if its still no good in 500kms time then ill pull the head and oil pump and investigate properly.

The tubes can only fit in one way (the bolt that holds them in at the cam chain end is off centre) so shouldn't be an issue.

You did clean the small gauze filter in the back of the solenoid mounting block?? Its threaded into the mounting face of it and you use an allen key to remove it.

yeah i removed the filter but it wasnt dirty.

Out of curiousity, what are you using to activate them? Did you check all your wires for it, i know if your rpm signal wire is poor connection it wont trigger same goes for ground wire for msd 8969 and the mss. Not that im assuming you wouldnt know this, just throwing out other possibilities.

Me thinks the test light would eliminate the rpm signal though because its being sent to the solenoids, the ground could still be a possibility i suppose.

Well i dont know what to say. I put the test light back on and now it doesnt work.... I rechecked the wiring again. Im getting 12v on pin1 inlet 12v on pin2 exh just like it says in the wiring diagram.

I put my meter on pins 102 and 106 of the ecu..... i get 12v at those pins (when car running at idle) when it switches at 3000 inlet and 3500 exhaust the voltage goes to 0? So its switching. But something isnt right about that to me.

Man i cant get my head around this.... I thinking must have royally screwed up this wiring. But i have tested the connections to be connect as per the sr20ve wiring diagram.

Im confused as all heck now as that test light worked the last time i drove it.

I ran the car and put voltage across both solenoids... they work perfectly i get a lumpy idle when i do this.

Im using sr16ve ecu with daughterboard.