Thread: What is the Most Powerful all motor SR20Ve?

I'm not trying to open a giant can of worms or anything, and I have no first hand experience with any of Jun's engine builds, but I don't think the engine that you're talking about is 1998cc. It may very well be and I don't doubt the power he made could be done with 2 liters, but I wouldn't bet on it.

I believe Jun mentioned his motor was punched out to a 2.2. I may be wrong.

that is correct rob

^I've looked over your mods list and that is how I have planned to setup my VE for a while now. You seem to have a freak motor, or a very good tune. I have the ASP header, I'm just waiting on a intake manifold that can add about 10WHP or so on a stock bottom/stock head work setup ( The motor will be fully bolted of course). I'm not interested in breaking the motor down raising the HC and having it not so daily driver friendly for my needs.



^That's what he told me at the convention. He made 268WHP. I have it on VID. I think you saw/knew that part already though.

Nizmo I would recomened Juns setup running a drysump oil setup.I wouldn't recomende maintaining revs constantly from 7500 to 10K + with a stock ve oil pump unless you run a drysump oil setup.Maintaining revs up that high will cause bearing failure if not running a drysump setup.This is just what I think will be safe since I don't know how well the ve oil pump will perfrom at those rpms.Plus you will need a transmission with atleast a 5.0 final drive to take advantage of that engine reving upto 10k.If money is not a issue.I know somebody that is working on a 5.0 final drive.Let me know if anything.

If your not able to get the final drive.When your ready to have your header made.Make it with long runners to bring peak whp down to a lower rpm and run a b15 transmission or sr16.

yes i meant to correct that earlier, his is 2.2L what i wanted to do was keep people from arguing when someone is looking for info

non taken

here is where i got race car from

"Power goal: 250hp. Must be 2.0L and naturally aspirated due to class restrictions."

class restrictions means its most likely a circuit car. And on the track itb's are needed. It has jack all to most power the car is able to achieve, as a well set up intake manifold will make this power. This is why people do single tb conversions to gtr's set up for the 1/4. On the circuit track the standard gtr gear will fair better.


also 15:1 comp on a circuit car.....forget it. Great for a drag car running on meth. I assume jun is running an alcohol based fuel?

I will agree 100% that alcohol based fuels and high comp are great for the standard ve head because of the way it burns and the optimal intake/exhaust ratio needed with these fuels. Believe it or not it actually band aids some of the problems in the standard head. It can still be improved though.

+1. Explain otherwise why on the track a 140 whp B13 can kick ass on an E46, E39, or on the lighter end, Honda Civic Si with 200 chp motor stripped for track use.

I have vids to back up each of those examples and more. And, I have videos of getting my own ass kicked by so-called lesser cars. A bone stock 1995 Miata comes to mind driven by a very good driver, in the rain no less.

DRIVER. Once you get enough hp, spread across a usable power band, the right suspension, tires, brakes, the driver is going to matter more than another 40 whp. There's also only so light you can go, once you get there added power may not really be usable. I'm sure plenty of VE owners would like more power from 3000-5000 rpm, it's not any easier to get that really than with a good high CR DE. I've seen some impressive VE's but below 4000-5000 their power curve does not look much different than mine.

If your driving isn't at the top of your game, 200 vs 240 hp isn't going to make much difference. I was thoroughly annoyed by an E46 simply because he didn't know the braking and flow of the course. Even on the longest straight, he'd blow me away up to 130 mph plus, lose it all back in the first turn with crappy turn-in choice and excessive braking.

I see that a lot with novice drivers who have a lot of power - "I'll make it up on the straight sections" - sure

I can't believe this is four pages plus in length - high compression, VVL, aggressive tune, porting, and blah, blah, blah. Plenty of people have hit over 200 whp using a VE with a very aggressive tune and no FI. Spend the leftover money on more instruction and seat time.

All this has been done before and will be done again

Good observation and good input on CR, 15:1 is well, probably not going to be manageable. 11:1 or 12:1, maybe.

But this part by the OP cinched it for me:



Yeah, maybe this is a track car

I kind of agree, Although he never mentioned how much race experience he has he may already have a few seasons under his belt

Personally (this is only want i'd do and definitely not gospel) I'd build the bottom end with CP or similar 12.5 cr pistons some lightweight rods and lighten the crank if I could afford it. If I couldn't i'd be happy enough with a 8cw and 20ve rods and decent rod fasteners and just run a stock top end with 20ve cams and a decent standalone and tune, a decent header and running on race gas.
Then i'd just race it like that for a season. You'd get awesome midrange with the high cr and 20ve cams and would be a good first season motor. Then in the off season pull the head (and freshen the bottom end if it needs it) and do a bit of head work maybe change your cams if you WANT a change in power band look at an intake maybe, stuff like that.
I seen heaps of people start building race cars and are still building them seasons later because they want this all conquering race car, remember a slow race car is still out there racing, you can develp it as you go and you'll have a lot more fun because you'll be racing and you'll be making changes as you need them.

Just my 2cents (with everyone else's you must have atleast a few bucks now! :bigthumbup