Thread: VE swap - question about EGR plugs

I recently got my VE swapped into my B13. I'm throwing a code 13 (coolant temp sensor) but the sensor checked out good. I traced the harness down and realized two gray plugs were unplugged, the big plug plugged into another gray connector with 2 black wires and a screw syyle bolt by the EGR assy,and the 2nd is supposed to be plugged into a black plug on the EGR valve itself. Now that I have no EGR system, what do I do with these two plugs. My car's been running extremely rich and with a bouncy idle and I'm thinking these two plugs are the reason. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!

So one of them is the EGT sensor found in CA cars, this plugs into a probe that goes into the EGR pipe connecting to the header/IM. The 2nd, not so sure what it does, is this the one we put a resistor on after EGR removal?
This code 13 is killing my car, I got a new sensor in, voltage to the sensor is 4.83V, the car is running like total crap, high idle... increasingly erratic, runs really rich, surge, hesitation, jerking bad, won't start up at times or stalls out when warm, really dangerous in rush hour, and to top it all off, VVL is not working anymore. Can CTS issues shut off the VVL, maybe running in limp mode, etc?
The yellow wire from the CTS turns into a blue/orange at the ECU correct? Is this supposed to be plugged right into the ECU or does it jump into a relay(Green) bolted on the ECU like mine does. Help a brotha out

If you are getting code 13, then the engine is in limp mode causing the engine to run rich, pulled timing, and the radiator fans to kick in.

You need to replace the VE water temp sensor and resistor to the DE if you are using the DE ecu.

The sensor is definitely USDM, I even replaced it with another one from Autozone, stlll same problem. So limp mode will turn VVL off as well?

I'm pretty sure limp mode doesn't let you past a certain rpm - 3500 or something (knock sensor turns off at 4k, so mebbe it's that?) so yes, you wouldn't get even high enough to hit VVL.

*edit* crap - this is on a b13 with a b13 harness? I bet one plug was for the egr solenoid - which shouldn't throw a code. As far as a b13 knows, since the egr is operated strictly on a vaccum, there isn't anything that would cause it to throw a code or run like bunk. Also, there is a grey harness that comes off the injector harness that doesn't get plugged into anything at all.

I can easily hit redline, but it's a bit sluggish in the midrange. Feels like a DE, the activation switch works.
The CA ECU for b13's still throws a code 35 for EGR if that's what you're thinking about. EGR is the least of my worries.
I'm keep getting a .4 ohms reading off the new sensor when it's cold with the Multimeter set at 200 ohms. Run it for a couple minutes and still .4 ~.5ish. If I place the MM to a higher level, it doesn't read. Did Autozone sell me a bunk sensor?