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Thread: Throttle screw strikes again

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Posts: 21-30 of 39
2009-08-10 20:50:23
#21
Originally Posted by snickers
This is what happens when the throttle is not adjusted right. When you go to WOT and the throttle body stops on the screw but your pedal is not at the stop at the same time, you are applying leverage to the throttle shaft that was not meant to be there. This will make the throttle shaft slowly bend over time. It will pivot off of the bearing and then will flex at the screw in the plate. This will cause it to loosen up over time.


In a nutshell, you over-tightened the throttle cable, and when you push the pedal to the floor, the TB is BEYOND the stop? Is this what you're saying?
2009-08-10 21:59:57
#22
Originally Posted by TeKKiE
In a nutshell, you over-tightened the throttle cable, and when you push the pedal to the floor, the TB is BEYOND the stop? Is this what you're saying?


basically, when you dont have the throttle adjusted correctly, the cable is still trying to pull the throttle open more, so the leverage pulls on the throttle shaft causing it to bend and flex at the screw point. This is a pretty common problem with the drifter guys as they are always in a rush to get the car back together and they just put the cable on and tighten it.
2009-08-10 22:26:43
#23
If you don't mind me to recommend mig welding the throttle plate to the pivot shaft then removing both screws....Problem solved for the future of the thread.
2009-08-10 22:56:09
#24
i tig'd the back of my screws when the throttle body was off, dont see the need to ever remove the throttle plate, so why not?
2009-08-11 04:48:47
#25
I have tried tightening mine several times but they are too tight. I will keep an eye on them, but I am pretty sure mine are going to be fine. If not then I will just build a 2.2L with a sleeved block and ported head with big valves. MMMMMmmmmmmmmm
2009-08-11 19:32:27
#26
so if youy have a de throttle body, no worries then? right?
2009-08-15 19:18:56
#27
I hate to say this, but thanks for finally getting me off my ass to do this!

When I first got my motor from Dre, that was one of my priorities on the to do list before installing the motor. I read multiple posts about the TB problem. Well needless to say the TB screws were too damn tight and I was to scared I was going to strip the screws on my effort! I also thought maybe this is really an isolated issue and it won't/can't happen to me since the screws won't even budge! So I gave up on worrying about it and went ahead installed the motor without any loctite on my TB screws.


Fast forward about 6 months and about 4,000 miles of driving, I read your post last week and decide to try this again..just maybe it could possibly happen to me. After pulling my car out of daily service and getting it ready for my first (high performance drivers ed). Today 8/15/09 you wouldn't believe what I discover:
1 very loose TB screw and the other TB screw just turns out freely without any effort whatsoever! You saved me big time or I would have been the next to post the damage about TB screws!


Moral of story for anybody without secured TB screws: Loctite/secure your TB screws or you will be next!!
2009-08-15 20:29:46
#28
lol good timing..

so whats the difference between blue an red? i used blue.. should i go change it to red?
2009-08-15 20:29:57
#29
Very good save!.
2009-08-16 04:19:35
#30
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
lol good timing..

so whats the difference between blue an red? i used blue.. should i go change it to red?


blue is made to loosen with hand tools
red is made to loosen with air tools

probably a bit more in depth than that , iirc, red takes a higher amount of heat...it IS the stronger of the two, however blue does kinda hold its own...when we did the spec v secondary runners we used red..if its something you can do without taking apart(tb, runners, brain) use red
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