Thread: Franklin 20v low/ N1 high cams are available!!

I think the "drama" is just the same usual stuff that comes up when A/M cams are talked about, you should be used to that by now

Not sure on the spring thing but i'd say yes since there is alot of people kicking round with n1's with stock 20ve springs, I believe the n1 springs are softer than 20ve

I hope you do try some of these cams at some stage coheed, It'd be interesting to see how these go with turbo, could be quite a good cam with a nice wide power band?

Have you managed to squeeze anymore power out of your vzr yet?

id prefer a 20v bottom end, and slightly bigger than n1 high lobe (to suit people with valvesprings), but thats not going to happen anytime soon from any manufacturer.

You realise franklin do custom grinds. You can get that now. You could ring/email them and say exactly that and get exactly that. Its really not that hard......
franklins website: Franklin Cam Services - Home
kelfords: [url]www.thecamshaftshop.com[/url]
All you need to do is front up the 700 odd USD or whatever it is to get them made

Yeah, another 3 or 4 wheel kWs through tuning.
I'm on a mission now to keep the power, but remove the noise... Wish me luck. HAHHAHAH!

these cams have been dynoed!!!!!!!

here for those that need to be spoon feed

page 1

20vs vs fs4's

http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/9990-went-dyno-last-night-tell-me-what-you-think.html


and half way down is the 20v/n1 vs fs4

http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/9990-went-dyno-last-night-tell-me-what-you-think-9.html

i personally would be asking for a 20-v/fs4 profile myself and switch cams around 6500 and rev to 9500 and obviously would get valve springs

I know of a set that went somewhere for a project with a Frankenstein setup.
20V low/ S4 high intake
20V low/ N1 high exhaust
All cams should be drop in
Base circle's have been kept identical as I explained to Adrian that it is cruicial for the end users that dont have the know how or dont want to spend time in re doing the shims.

Once Franklin has the base circles set correctly which they seem to have now then the cam is ready for the public.

Since seeing the dynos by Evlnxr, I came up to a conclussion. I still dont feel that the FS4s make any more peak hp than N1s but as shown they make peak HP higher in the RPM band and holds the power longer.

That being said 20VLs and FS4 highs will be the way to go. The 20V lows will take up the bottom end and carry out to 6400-6700 and then the FS4s take over up to 8500-9000 RPMs

Thats the way I would go

I didn't see any where in your original post that you mentioned this included shipping. Which seeing they're coming from the opposite side of the world can be a decent chunk of change, don't forget we're dealing with Nissan owners here.

Sometime I wonder if people listen. I told you a month ago I ordered two sets of these. I'll test them, keep the results to myself like I always do, and go back to Adrian with suggestions for improvements and a possible custom grind.

I think part of the apprehension might be because Charles made a big stink about making them "right" and getting the two lobes (high and low) degree'd (with respect to each other) as well as making sure the newly designed intake cam would play nice with the current exhaust cams (or was a new exhaust cam in the works too?) making it a complete drop in affair (a la JWT cams) instead of having the intake lobes incorrectly degree'd (with no solution) and the intake cam overall not matched well in degree to the exhaust cam requiring cam gears (a la BC cams).

Cams are complicated. Charles made sure we knew that, and that he was going to make them right.

Have we been given the same assurance from Franklin?

I think not.