Thread: VVL activation points?points?

I am actually liking 5300 on both cams now, but still need to get it tuned to make sure. I know there is alot more left in there. I also still have to fix a few coolant leaks, which will be fixed by the end of the weekend. VE FOR ME!! Now I just have to save up and get me some N1's, valve springs, and maybe one of those APS headers!

On my greddy there are two 4 set points. What should this be?

Currently i have the first solenoid @ on 4100 off 4000 & Second solonoid on 4800 off 4600

The MSS allows you to set an RPM level at which the high cam will switch back to the low cam. This helps avoid "hunting" back and forth if you are running at a steady RPM near the switch point, or it allows you to stay on the high cams on a road course if you need to do that. I usually set mine a couple hundred RPMs lower than the switch point for going from low to high cams, and never had any issues.

Where you should switch your cams depends on your specific engine and set up. What cams are you running? 4100 seems low for even the stock SR20VE cams.

For you guys that are setting your cams by the seat of your pants, just know that it's going to be really hard to get it right. If you feel a big power surge when the cams switch (which will feel "good"), you are probably switching too late, after the lower cams have flattened out or even fallen off. If you are feeling a lag when the cams switch, then you are probably switching too early, before the high cams can produce more power than the low cams.

When the switch points are set on the dyno, the feeling on the road is a smooth transition that just pulls harder and harder as RPMs build. So when the switch point is correct, the feeling will be most unremarkable, and this is not something that will be easy to identify by feel alone, IMHO.

esp. when switching the cams separately.