Thread: 0w30 castrol

Just stating that it wouldn't make much diff with oil consumption issues except when cold with very loose internals. Other than that the 0w will react just like 5w or 10w.

your motor seems to eat more than mine, but I don't think I ever get 4K out of oil before it completely shears down to water consistency.

A 0W-30 oil WILL NOT have the same viscosity as a straight 30 weight oil at 200 deg F. The straight 30 weight will be thicker still. The viscosity modifiers ( additives) do nothing for the engine as far as lubricating, and also are horrible for turbocharged motors because that additive cokes up and will break up before the engine oil will. You always want to run as close of an oil rating to the temp you are in ( climate) and also related to the time of year. Most manufacturers for FACTORY STOCK motors try to get something that will work everywhere for everything.

Porsche recommends 0W-40 Mobil 1 in everything. In the winter here in Seattle, I tell that go to the track and or have problems with their car getting up to temp fast enough to run Mobil 1 0W-30 and they dont have those problems as much or hardly ever. In the Summer its another story. Mobil 1 15W-40 works great and actually keeps most engines cooler by about 10 deg F on average as well as keeping oil pressure and temps more consistent.

All oils are graded hot at 100*C. So a 0w30 will be the same thickness as even a straight 30weight at 200*. It has to have a cST of 9.30-12.49 to be considered a 30weight oil at 214*F.

The additive package I was referring to is not the VI inducer package, but rather the additive package that the oil has to reduce friction. This is a combination of molybdenum, zinc etc.

It is true, however, that having more VII additives will have more of a tendency of coking up than straight weight oils, but that is why they have extra detergents to help keep things clean. Under normal change intervals you shouldn't ever have to worry about coking oil in your turbo unless it is not water cooled.

A lot of guys really rave about this oil though and their wear tests prove to have promising results showing really great oil life and low wear metals, even in high performance engines.

The 0w30 is also very heavy for a 30weight oil. borderline 40 weight when hot, and good to -30*F cold.

Oil analysis results, 8000 miles with Castrol 0w30 - Corvette Forum

have to agree with coheed, you gotta look at the cst values at 100*C, this is more important than the "30" weight rating.

CST values are good, but not all numbers printed and documented are equal.

Spend more time at the track logging data (road racing not drag) as well as a lot of time on the dyno observing and recording not just HP, but oil temps, pressure and so on. A GOOD top quality straight 30 weight oil DOES cool better than a 5-30 of the same brand.

To put this into perspective, do a 5th gear pull on a 500whp VE motor starting at 1000rpm full throttle on a dynojet 248c and rev it all the way to 9000rpm+. This is with a 12x12x1" oil cooler and -12AN lines. Do this 3 pulls in a row with 5w30 and you will get through the second run and want to let the car cool down a bit because of the high oil temps. With straight 30 weight oil, the oil temps will rise but will stabilize as well as oil pressure remaining consistent and not falling to sum 10psi/k rpms.

Choosing oil based off of numbers supplied will get you pointed in the right direction but for performance applications you should be testing under loaded conditions and temperatures that are applicable to the demands of the motor.

i don't road race, but i do autox the car plenty. i don't run crazy power just bit over 300 at the motor on my gti-r at 15psi, but i've never had major burn off issues on a 0w40 mobil1 (cst at 100*c = 14), 0w40 esso xd-3 (15.2), 0w30 esso xd-3 (12.2) oils. i don't have experience with straight weight oils tho, but i've used a large range of oils on my car to compare against on my own car.

but i did find i did had issues with mobil's 10w30 (cst at 100*c = 10) and castrol syntec 5w30(9.7), but not the mobil 5w30 (11.2).

this is just from my experience.

Iron 9
Lead 4
Aluminum 3
Copper 3
Chromium 0
Tin 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Nickel 0
Silicon 11
Potassium 0
Sodium 3
Boron 2
Barium 0
Calcium 2547
Magnesium 127
Moly 4
Phosphorus 818
Zinc 852
Fuel 0
Glycol 0
Water 0
Oxidation 64%
Nitration (not given)
Viscosity 12.0 cst at 100c
TAN 3.94
TBN 3.82

This is 8000 mile old oil. Yet it still has a high viscosity. Even for a new oil or a straight 30 weight.

I prefer to look at third party data. Rotella 5w40 and Castrol 0w30 get my picks for best oil. Straight weight oil is very good, but will cause serious wear issues on a cold start in temps under 80*.

This oil still has over 850ppm zinc, and is 8000 miles old. Either this motor wears extremely well, or the oil works as advertised. Only 9ppm Iron! There are several people with UOAs with results just like these.

My VE used to eat Royal Purple. Switched to 0-30 german Castrol and it went away. Blackstone report was very good after 5k miles. I can dig it up later.

Yeah I've had 0w30 Castrol for about 3000 km and had to top up 1/4 liter so far but this is the first synthetic oil in it so I am not surprised. I'd recommend it for sure.

well iv put some 10W40 in there with the remains of the 0W30 so ill see what happens im gona change my valve and see if that stops it if not compresion check and see if the rings have gone..