Thread: Starting thy glorious vvl project

My honest opinion after building a 16ve would be to do the following

SR16ve motor
Crazy headwork
92mm bore 12:1 CR pistons
68mm stroke (stock 16ve
ported N1 intake manifold
ASP header
N1 cams

You will be able to rev and make power to 10krpm and still have less stress on your bottom end than an 86x86 revving to 8500rpm

My planned winter project (gonna love what I've got now till November):

SR16ve block - so I can get the oil squirters
Crazy headwork - done
92mm bore 11.5:1 CR lightened pistons
Carillo rods
DE 8cw crank - knife edged
ported N1 intake manifold - done
ASP header - done
N1 cams - done

And yes, I want to be able to rev and make power to 10k rpm and still have less stress on the bottom end than a stock VE revving to 8500rpm

Ill say it again

68mm stroke > 86mm stroke if you want to rev your motor past 8500rpm and actually make power on a street car.

agreed. the rod ratio of the 16ve is just plain stupid!! you could rev it to 11,000 and not have much stress on the bottom end.

From talking to snickers, by using lightened pistons, lightweight rods, oil squirters, and the knife edge 8cw crank, it will be able to rev to 9500 safely all day long. And it should make big power from 7k-9k.

and you would have already spent more money than a big bore 16ve...

Considering the only person actually making n/a power to 9k is actually running crazy compression on a 20ve I will still stick by my statement.

yeah if someone has the $$$.

cp lightweight 92mm pistons
mazworxs custom aluminum rods
knife edged crank (whether it be 16ve or 20de)

and headwork.



i remember when i first heard about the sr18, i aqs like yeah cool and crank in the midle, so should have a slightly better rod ratio than the s2000 with a bit more torque than the 16ve. i was quickly dissapointed as i found out the sr18 runs different bore.

thing is the sr16ve will ALWAYS rev better than the 20ve. But you can get the 20 to rev

JUst for the debate, is the big difference in the cost of rods vs stock rods? Boring the block costs the same either way, and big bore pistons cost the same either way. I already have a good de crank. I didn't think knife edging was uber expensive. I would think the 8cw would help longevity when spinning over 9k. I'm not sure where I would be spending so much more. I am listening, but I'm not sure where all the savings will come from. Help me understand as this is something I am planning for this winter and I want to build this thing only once.

Joe

If you already had a 16ve you would already have 90% of everything you need

You would still need to
bore the block
Get the headgasket
buy the pistons

Now think about the two motors for a second, the side load on the pistons will be greater on an 86 stroke than a 68 stroke. In theory you could make a lighter 92mm piston for a 68 stroke than for an 86 stroke because of this.

Also don't forget the VE motor was designed for the short stroke, the 20ve was cobbled together after the fact. the N1 intake along with timing events are all designed around that 68 stroke and you will have a more reliable higher reving car with that shorter stroke.

I doubt anyone will want to do this because i think a lot of people don't like the thought of a 1.6L motor vs the traditional 2.0L motor.

When i was building my motor if i had know there would be a reliable 92mm headgasket by the time i finished I would have gone 92mm kept the short stroke and done 12.5:1CR and waste the rest of my money on killer head work.

you guys are complicating things way to much.

20ve's can rev and rev all day. stock bottom ve's reving to 9k or 9500k is no big thing here in ny. **** juniors 200 revs to what 10500 k i believe and this is done with a stock rod/stroke ratio. ve's having been reving past 9k here in ny since what 03 ? not one single crank issue has been reported.

how much more do you guys want to rev ?

happynole go with 12:1 at least if not go with 12:5:1. i would suggest getting a lowport 02 intake mani as they seem to do the trick.

stratton.