Thread: Sad sad N1 cam dyno results

Ok I changed the maps so their counterparts are matching. What will that do?

Also my tuner wanted to know why the fuel map jumps from the 192's down to like the 20's. He said it should be a much smoother transition.

The pars of the map that is 192 are 02 controlled. They will try and keep the A/F at 14.1ish while your driving. When you map trace it you never leave that map until you get more into the throttle. With the hi and low maps (Normal and knock) the same the car won't switch over to the knock map when it hears anything that it thinks is knock. Are you getting a ecu code for knock sensor? if so run a new shielded wire from the knock sensor to the ecu. I think I have the normal calum SR16 bin I'll post it up on the SR20forum. I can't rem if I changed the maf on it tho so you might have to change it yourself.


*** found it. http://www.sr20forum.com/2248755-post4.html this is a good base map to start off with. Just rem to make changes to both knock maps if you change anything. If you mess with the timing map make the same changes in the knock map for timing. It's easy with the nistune but I'm not sure which program you use.

Great info right there. Whats the difference between b13 and b14 bins?

From what I remember it was the size of the bin's. The ecu is different too.

A b14 bin would not work on a b13 ecu, in fact it wouldn't make any sense on tuner rt pro or most bin readers unless you have an xdf to read the b14 bin.

Dudeman

If its a 1.875" non stepped header, then thats the first problem. 1.875" off the cylinder head is way to big. those header specs are more for a 2.4L motor reving to 8-9k. Also, if you made the collector yourself, post pics of it. If the transition from the primaries into the actual merge point is not a smooth transition, then you will lose a lot of power there. the 2.5" exhaust shouldnt really kill the power of the motor. If anything, it will just hurt the top end a little, but everywhere else will be ok.

The convergent and divergent angles of the collector and transition, play a huge role in the powerband of the motor.

Just to add, I had been using that attached bin, it works ok, however I was getting 20mpg with it, before tuning. So be ready to do some considerable modification to the fuel map. I am at the conclusion the reason our cars are not making the power they should be has nothing to do with the tune. I have tried countless tunes on my car and they all are very similar, with no huge differences, not 25whp at any rate.

On another note, it is highly suggested you turn off your knock sensor if you are running aftermarket mods. The knock sensor will read false positives due to the increased vibrations. Get rid of the problem and uncheck the feedback flag box.

E's 92' sr20 if you do not know the difference between closed and open loop, and neither does your tuner. I would suggest taking matters into your own hands and do some reading bro! There is more then enough info on THIS forum to become self sufficient at tuning your car on your own. Plus it's cheaper.

Dudeman

Sorry I was just guessing the ssac was 1.875 I think. I just measured the primaries they are 1.75" OD. I'll get pics right now.





PICS!

my AFR's are between 13.3 highest, 11.7 lowest, i did 171hp with SR16 cams and only revving to 7k

in tunerpro it auto changes the knock fuel and timing maps.

that bin is what i've been working off of too. i've made some timing and fuel adjustments (a mishmash of calums bin and frankies fuel). i smoothed everything around the map. no more big jumps and big dips. i also bluerb240's adjustments that kill the hunting (which work great no hunting in days). i also deactivated the knock sensor flag.

car seems to be running very well. i don't have a wideband yet and haven't been to a dyno to get numbers. but sotp says that it's pulling better than before. and i'm getting around 28mpg mixed. if anyone wants to look at it i can shoot it to ya.