Thread: VET Cams

Really? I thought you were talking about the VET cam:



I understand that you've also remarked that the 20V cams would be preferable. But if it turns out that the VET's exhaust cam has the same high lobe as a 20V, but the better low lobe, then wouldn't that be the better option?




No I wasn't, as per my earlier post:






Good stuff. That's the sort of thing that I simply can't tell with my current setup, as (a) there's no point revving past 6500 because there's no torque, and (b) the standard turbo spools so quickly anyway. If you're happy to send your cams away to be measured, then all the better

Depends on the setup though cause every engine is different, jsut like people claims that the N1 intake would make extra power cause it worked for them bu others lose power.

I have the VET cams in my N15, I gotten the exhaust cam pulsing on and off at low revs making the turbo wind up quicker. Permanently on exhaust cam from 6000 revs now. Power gain was 31hp and the exhaust heat probe showed up colder on the dyno. Turbo is an XTR garret hybrid turbo. very happy with the results i got, despite the hassles

Well feel free to test on my engine once it's built... we just need to get it done Kieran :-p

Explain how your controlling the exhaust cam pulsing on and off?

If yoru making 31more whp im going to assume that your exhaust temp would go up!

Never knew there was an SR20VET in sydney in an n15....

The engine computer tune is pulsing the exhaust cam but it makes the car backfire a bit.

not sure on the theory too much but i seen the dyno logs on two seperate mainline dynos. manifold presure not spiking and heating the manifold as much may explain it though. I might ask my dad, he is a well known ozzie engine builder and might be able to explain it.

I moved to sydney from sunshine coast to live with my sister. its a red n15 sedan with a V+t setup. i bought the car through a friend from a guy who setup it in kempsey. the turbo is a now a XTR SR3040 from gcg with 18psi daily and 25psi for balsts through the gorge.

i had to upgrade the brakes once i moved down here, the mechanic thought the brakes I had were too small. stop awesome now

The only time I ever heard of a VVL pulsing on and off was when I tried to activate the VVL with a stupid shift light, and I didn't know that specific shift light I bought blinks, so the VVL did that also Lol I didnt know if I should laugh or just get angry about it.

I figured I would post this here. I got a chance to play with the VET exhaust cam switchover. I started out by lowering the exhaust switchover and reading the vacuum/boost gauge. No surprise, there was about a 3in drop in vacuum when the cam was switched at idle. Went from 19" to about 16" and a very rough idle.

I then switched it up to 2000rpm or so. It built boost 12psi by 3800rpm. Not bad at all. When boost hit, it seemed to hit a lot harder and all at once in the lower gears. The butt dyno doesn't tell much of a story. It did seem to hit a lot harder when the exhaust was switching over early. There is also a notable exhaust tone change with the switchover. Something that is absent with just the intake changing.

The car pulls really good. Very strong. I'm sure boost will hit a lot sooner when I am done with everything else.

I am going to post dyno sheets up when I get the chance so we all can see what actually happens when the exhaust changes. I would love to see a gain, but I am skeptical. All the exhaust flow in the world won't help much with a crappy log manifold. But I will def get some dyno runs soon!

cool. when do you normally hit 12psi buy?

I would say around 4200rpm. I have an exhaust leak pre-turbo so I normally don't hit full boost until 4800rpm.

It isn't a huge difference. The dyno will tell a better story than I can though. My butt dyno needs calibrating.

Good work, keep us posted