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Thread: Safe max rev on SRXXVE cams

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Posts: 21-30 of 190
2009-01-29 05:48:32
#21
Originally Posted by Coheed
Oh I got ya. I will stick with the 20ve cams if I get valve springs, or the sr16 cams if I stay without.


If you have a divided turbo manifold and a decent turbine housing, the sr16 cams will be way better. I.E. if you kept your GT30R and got a .82 divided, then yeah, you will make 530-550whp and have full boost at 4-4500rpm and peak power at about 8500rpm
2009-01-29 05:51:21
#22
According to what snikers said, if you are only revving to 8K on a VE with N1's, the stock s/r's seems like they would do the job. What are the strength/rating difference with the stock s/r's vs the aftermarket s/r's? I still see the point you guys are making though.

97se-rblown - You running BC2's? I'm currently running them on stock s/r's on my daily.
2009-01-29 05:54:02
#23
Since I am at high altitude I am looking for about 460-480whp max before this turbo can't keep up. Guys are getting about 550whp at sea level. I have been the "big boost" route and now I would like to take the honda route for power. Low boost, high efficiency, high revs. But I still want it to be a street car. I am hoping to get the power I want before 9K, while having tons of midrange power. I want to be able to take a C6 ZO6 with ease on the strip this season.

I am looking for tons of power on 22psi of boost or less. What kind of torque numbers do you think this setup will see? 400wtq?
2009-01-29 05:55:39
#24
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DE
According to what snikers said, if you are only revving to 8K on a VE with N1's, the stock s/r's seems like they would do the job. What are the strength/rating on different with the stock s/r's vs the aftermarket s/r's? I still see the point you guys are making though.

97se-rblown - You running BC2's? I'm currently running them on stock s/r's on my daily.


I don't think he meant the N1 cams, I think he meant the plain sr16 cams up to 9k.

The n1 cams would be insane! But I don't think the power would come on soon enough. Perhaps the 20V/N1 grind would work well if someone made it?
2009-01-29 05:58:18
#25
Useful SR20VE and SR16VE "Cam Info"
SR20VE

Intake cam
Low lobe: 8.4mm lift @ 220 duration
Low lobe center angle: 110deg
High lobe:10.7mm lift @ 264 duration
High lobe center angle: 104deg

Exhaust cam
Low lobe: 6.6 mm lift @ 244 duration
Low lobe center angle: 122deg
High lobe:10.34 mm lift @ 268 duration
High lobe center angle: 114 deg

SR16VE

Intake cam
Low Intake Duration: 200
Low Intake Lift: 7.1
Low Intake Center Angle: 100

Low Lobe Center Angle: 111
Low Overlap: 0

High Intake Duration: 280
High Intake Lift: 11.1
High Intake Center Angle: 100

High Lobe Center Angle: 105
High Overlap: 70

Exhaust cam
Low Exhaust Duration: 244
Low Exhaust Lift: 7.95
Low Exhaust Center Angle:122

High Exhaust Duration: 280
High Exhaust Lift: 11.1
High Exhaust Center Angle:110

SR16VE N1

Intake cam
Low Intake Duration: 220
Low Intake Lift: 8.4
Low Intake Center Angle: 110

Low Lobe Center Angle: 116
Low Overlap: 0

High Intake Duration: 288
High Intake Lift: 12.0
High Intake Center Angle: 104

Exhaust cam
Low Exhaust Duration: 244
Low Exhaust Lift: 7.95
Low Exhaust Center Angle:122

High Exhaust Duration: 288
High Exhaust Lift: 11.9
High Exhaust Center Angle:110

SR20VE (20V)

Intake cam
Low duration: 228deg
Low lift 10.10mm
Low center angle: 114deg

High duration: 278deg
High lift: 12.00 mm
High center angle: 114deg

Exhaust cam

Low duration: 244deg
Low lift: 8.30mm
Low center angle: 106deg

High duration: 280deg
High lift: 11.15mm
High center angle: 108deg

Other cam info
Timing Events:
All of the above (except lifts ofcourse) can be calculated from teh timing events.

SR16VE
Intake Low: Opens at 0deg before TDC, Closes at 20deg After BDC
Intake High: Opens at 40deg before TDC, Closes at 60deg After BDC
Exhaust Low: Opens at 64deg before BDC, Closes at 0deg After TDC
Exhaust High: Opens at 70deg before BDC, Closes at 30deg After TDC

SR16VE-N1
Intake Low: Opens at 0deg before TDC, Closes at 40deg After BDC
Intake High: Opens at 40deg before TDC, Closes at 68deg After BDC
Exhaust Low: Opens at 64deg before BDC, Closes at 0deg After TDC
Exhaust High: Opens at 74deg before BDC, Closes at 34deg After TDC
2009-01-29 06:02:24
#26
Originally Posted by Coheed
I don't think he meant the N1 cams, I think he meant the plain sr16 cams up to 9k.

The n1 cams would be insane! But I don't think the power would come on soon enough. Perhaps the 20V/N1 grind would work well if someone made it?


^Aren't there two different aftermarket sets of s/r's? Do you have links of both? Are they interchangeable from DE to VE?
2009-01-29 06:19:44
#27
Mazworx, BC and franklin all make S/R combos. But I think the Maz stuff is BC?

DE stuff can't be used with VE.
2009-01-29 12:36:55
#28
Originally Posted by Coheed
Mazworx, BC and franklin all make S/R combos. But I think the Maz stuff is BC?

DE stuff can't be used with VE.


Mazworx is supertech stuff. They are the niceier then the BC but you do pay for them.

Mr-4Door-Sr20de You can run them with out s&r but I was planning on doing a 100 shot on the car with a 8k rev limit and thought that it would be some nice insurence to have them.

Matt
2009-01-29 13:45:01
#29
Originally Posted by 97se-rblown
Mazworx is supertech stuff. They are the niceier then the BC but you do pay for them.

Mr-4Door-Sr20de You can run them with out s&r but I was planning on doing a 100 shot on the car with a 8k rev limit and thought that it would be some nice insurence to have them.

Matt


^Ok. I gotcha now lol. I don't go pass 7300-7400.
2009-01-29 15:07:11
#30
The N1 cams will work with a turbo setup but ONLY with a larger turbo. The N1 exhaust cam has so much duration and the exhaust valve opens very early that they will only be beneficial at higher RPMS with a larger turbo. The N1 intake cam is ok and could be run though.
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