Thread: Plans for High CR VE build

Why not stick with the 4cw crank instead?

If you insist on the 8cw then ag least have it knife edged.

Also, see the other recent threads on the girlde removal option on N/A setups for a few added hp.

Might as well go with 86.5mm, same price, and I'm assuming you are going to have the cylinders cleaned up anyway so you might as well open them up a tad. Also with a low power build like that, I would personally just run the 4CW crank and no girdle. Especially if you are going to have everything balanced anyway.

Here is what I did on my rebuild

SR16 pistons cut to fit oil squirters. This piston was also lighter than the stock 2.0 piston
Forged rods were lighter than my Stock rods
8cw crank not lighter lol
My head already has a light port on it and a good valve job
Valve springs and I might throw in my N1 cams or try out the FS4's since I think I can prob tune the car for pump with those cams.

Is no super HP build but the motor will last at the rpm I plan to set the revlimiter too.

i dont think you can say at any given power band that the 8cw or 4cw is better. Facts are the 4 cw is lighter offering less resistance. The other half of this is that there is less counter weights slapping against the oil and offering resistance in this form. However a knife edged crank is best at reducing this kind of resistance. And i would feel a whole lot better knife edging an 8cw. The 8cw and girdle offers better harmonics. Hence if he wants to run 9000-10000rpm all day everyday, i think the 8cw and girdle is a no brainier.




interesting budget build. I know the 16ve pistons are around 13.5:1 in a de with ve head, but in a ve it would be lower. Have you worked out your comp? What rods you decide to go? if you are gonna go fs4's try and get them made with 20v bottoms as the fs4 low lobes leave a little to be desired, but the high lobes dont seem that bad.

Where did I say anything about the powerband having anything to do whether the 8cw or 4cw is better He also never said that he will be at 9k-10k rpm all day everyday. Where in the hell have you been reading this stuff?

Look for DAXX on this forum and on sr20forum.com. IIRC, his VE build still may be for sale. He spared no expense.

thats the part i was referring to, and i just realised i wrote powr band....not power level. my bad. He didnt say he is going to be revving high, i just figured with a build like that...i would want to rev it

The FS4 is an old grind. I'm going to try it out to see if I can get a little better tune on it since the Comp ratio is high. I forgot the brand name but they look just like the Tomie/eagle rods. The block is already done just going to order my parts from InfinitiPartsUSA.com, N1 tensioner, headgasket new VE water pump. Love the prices they have . If I can't tune out a pump gas map then I'll just switch over to the N1's and run 100 pump gas. I'm confident I can tune a good safe daily driver map tho and then a kick ass 100 pump gas map. I'll have time to break the motor in and tune it. I won't be keeping it long tho, it's going up for sale after I make sure everything is fine too many cars.

yeah that is a mad build, and well worth the $$$

http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction/12187-capt-rev-partout-2-2l-ve-t.html

5.5k will buy you a full 2.2ltr bottom end with 1/2 inch headstuds and mazworx headgasket. If anything its a little overkill for na, i cant remember what rods are in it, but i imagine they are pretty bulky

Oh I gotcha. I can see how you could think that's what I meant, I was talking about not really needing the girdle with the little amount of torque that motor will be producing. I would personally just use the 4cw crank though since he is getting everything balanced anyway, but if he wants to pay to knife edge the 8cw crank also, then cool. But for a daily summer driver, that sees the track once every few weekends, I do not see the point.