Thread: Plans for High CR VE build

it is not flow that is the problem per say. the factory manfold WILL not do.
and also the same thing that some have seen with the factory manifold can be attributed to the n1, the runners do not flow equally, number 4 is the culprit, to get it to do well requires alot of time, which means alot of money.

Ive already posted a dyno that showed static air intake flow on a ported factory manifold at 7k rpm for a 2.2L VE.

You literally cannot get enough air in to make power. Since i switched to MAP sensor the AEM clearly shows what the dyno reflects.

It's not valve float, it's not the header, it could be the head but there are also dynos of IM's that have been modified by mr freak that show power made on a stock 20ve with boltons carries out further than a stock IM.

Again, like i said you cannot reproduce 20v results on a 20ve or 16ve. I don't understand why a 20v is in this conversation. The 20v is the closest thing to Nissan actually building a 2.0L VE with the express purpose of it being a 2.0L VE.

Miko and Charles both know in much more detail than i do because I don't care about the 20v. Im not going to find one, buy one, modify one or try to make more power on one. I will also be daring and say that available mod for mod a 20ve will make more power than a 20v (n/a of course).

yeah i went there

Off topic

this part is a bolton 2.0L that showed a freak modified IM carried more power further on the dyno than the stock intake manifold

2.0L 86x86 1998cc SR20VE

i also have a dyno that shows a custom im making more power then the stock. and there is nothing special about it, its not even built right, its too short and has a huge plenum, but aparently its better then stock

Which is exactly what I've done, and for the same reason. RELIABILITY!

I spent a LOT on my last SR20VE disaster (in fact more than my ENTIRE new car), and HUUUGE mistake of an engine. Which WAS meant to be the 'all-killing-monster'; well it DID kill my bank balance, and consistantly under-achieve on the dyno, and road, which did kill my confidence, and was a gas guzzling monster. So it did kinda work... HAHAHHAHAH!

It was WAAAAAAAAAAY over-engineered, yet under-engineered, and used old World technology by people that really should have tried to keep me in the 20th Century; not plunging the extensive Nissan R&D back 25years into the pushrod era; as this engine builder did.

Hence I tried it from a different angle; shame it cost me SOOOO damn much to learn this.

Over here (in New Zealand) I NOW have the most powerfull N/A SR20VE, with around 140kW at the wheels, and a wide torque band; didn't take too much to acheive.

Started with a STANDARD SR20VE bottom end UNTOUCHED!

There are plenty of people over-complicating their builds here, and I was almost 20kW at the wheels more than most of these people.
One guy has even spent well over $ 10k, and two-years of build time with surprisingly, and upsettingly dissapointingly, average results.
I'll use his engine as a close reference as we both use the same gearbox, and ECU (Daughter Board), he may even have the same extractors(?); many of the others used the same ECU, but different gearboxes.

I suppose what I'm trying to say here is that I know what it's like to spend the $$$$, and do TOO much, with the results being below par.

If it's any help my old 'all-killing-monster' netted FOUR, yes, 4 more kW at the wheels, than the standard SR20VE engine did STOCK STANDARD internals and even SR20VE cams! Not EXACTLY what I was expecting...

interesting...

proof!

naaaahhhh,

^Wow. He went there.