Thread: So what are all the options? Never seen it laid out...

Okay well im new to the VE game and im loving it so far. But as far as mods im not to informed on where to pick them up? what they are?

i know ive searched and found threads "whats the recipe" blah blah...but i was going to see if anyone wanted to lay them all out, and best places to find them?


So far i have..

Summit Switches
3" w/ Cat to an N1
SSAC Headers
WAI

and it hauls some ass. but im looking for more options.


As far as i know...

Cams- N1's, best price??? gspec?? (chime in)

Management- Calum, SAFC, AFC Neo

Headers/exhaust- im thinking the ssac straight back to the N1 without the cat?

Intake - VE like CAI or WAI better?? any experience?

Switch Points if anyone wants to throw them in here, otherwise i know i can search for them.


Im not looking for crazy burns headers and pushing every little bit i can. But feeling this thing now, it hauls but i know theres more left in it.


If you guys want to flame and say search for it ill delete it, but the VE doesnt have many different mods, so i was hoping to have everyone chime in and make a list? (Duh keep your secrets)


Thanks guys...

n1's were on sale a while ago for like $500 from a few places.
Calum makes (correct? or it's still in testing) A VE realtime that lets you set switch points in the ecu rather than needing the msd's. that's where my RT $$$ is eventually going.
portmatch the ssac if you're going on the cheap. Check out Charles 4-1 custom if your cheap but serious. Gspec has the SS version for $$$, Charles has a steel one for $$ to the SSAC's $.
5200's about in the middle I guess, hear some going up t 6400. Dyno it to see, there's instructions on how to do that here somewhere.
3" WAI/CAI and a n60/cobra maf seems to be the consensus. Dunno if anyone has tried the 2.5" AEM cai yet. but I got one for $125 shipped if you need one.

check with andreas miko about the custom cams he was working on with a guy from down under somwhere, was a mix of the N1 lows and the 20 highs or something. Started a test and then something happened. Not sure what came of it in the end.

Personally i would say stay away from SAFC, emanage or anything that doesnt involve replacing your ecu for a calum. If he has his VE ecu's with the control points ready go for it and youll notice a substantial increase in both quality and power.

Exhaust i think 2.5"-3" is what you want. I want to say the stock is 2.5. I have SSAC on mine.

I believe my switch point is set to come on at 5200 and turns off as soon as i drop below 5k. Its been a while since ive set it so i dont recall exactly.

I use a WAI. Sits by my battery. Personally i dont like it but i dont know what to replace it with. I just want my car to run good for a few months so i can finally start getting the rest of my turbo stuff. My car hates me though

HS CAI for stock motors with boltons ( including N1 cams) makes the best power. If you have a stock intake manifold with 60mm T/B then make the last pipe to the T/B a 2.5-2.75" pipe. This helps midrange power a little.

N1 cams with cam gears will make more power, but to get the most out of them you need a better header. The $495 4-2-1 header that i'm starting to make should be a pretty good match for the basic setup. If you want the most power, then you will need a stepped SS custom header which is a bit more $$ but when fully tuned, nothing comes close HP wise.

Calum seems to be the best way to go as far as management. the stock G20 ecu's and maf setups seem to do pretty decent but there are a lot of gains to be had with full tuning. The cam changing ability with the new real time ecu is pretty neat and worth getting because it saves you from having to buy separate rpm switches.

Switching points with a GOOD header and HS CAI with stock sr20ve cams is usually about 4600 and 5000 IN/EX and with N1's it really varries with the header you are running. With the full custom stepped one I make, you need the IN at about 5100 and EX at 5800-5900 to get the best power. If you have a long tube non stepped header, you can switch them both at around 5000-5200 give or take. you need to play around with it a bit yourself though.

Why did'nt you tell me you had a VE?
N1 cams are around $550-580 from a legit seller. Those $500 cams, some guy bought them and the seller never sent them or never even had cams in the first place so watch out!

SSAC 2.5" header is a good choice if you dont have money. Fuji is better but costs $800. Turbofreak/Snickers ^/Charles 4-1 header is best but costs even more. He is working on a lower cost 4-2-1 header for around $400+.

Stock cams switch at 4600.

I would stay away from the n60 maf. As you remember at the track I had big problems with it. If you keep the de maf you may want to try a 2.5" tube in between the maf and throttle body unless you use a bigger maf. If you want to do a CAI I think the 2.5" tube between TB and maf then a 3" from maf to filter might work well but I have not gotten a hold of any material to try it yet. They say wai intake is best but that because of Serban's inconclusive dyno results that had to many variables. It needs to be dynoed again to tell for sure.

Cams, a guy in NZ was testing and trying to help make good cams for the ve but ran into some problems unrelated to cars and could not continue testing cams. He was testing the 20v bottom lobes and N1 tops. For now N1 cams are still the ones to beat.

Calum ECU's are pretty much the way to go. you can get a "Basic daughter board" ready to go with a regular ve tune but you will have to buy a Moates Burn1 or Burn2 to tune with it or "Realtime" ecu that connects to your laptop and you can tune on the fly.

Lets not foreget light weight flywheels and GregV's VE pullies.

Outlaw Engineering makes thermoblok spacers for the intake manifold to help keep intake temps down. they're about $100

Pistons, sr16 pistons are a common choice, they're not very expensive. They bump compression around 12.5:1 but I'm not sure on that. CP pistons now makes 12.5:1 and 9.0:1 pistons for the VE. the valve notches are 2mm deeper than stock.

what was the problem you had with the n60 maf?

Horrible idle, no midrange power at WOT Then hits super hard 6000+ rpms made my car run a 15.8, and thats with a custom 4-1 header! I went straight home and switched back to the de maf that very night all my problems went away. Before you ask I did have the maf perfectly straight up box on top and tested the voltage many times and it was good.

He's sorted out the cam issue now... Sold the VE (complete with car), and got a DE and bolted a T25 onto it.

So far the N1s ARE the cams to beat, according to the dyno down here anyways.

i would get this header

http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/13106-sr20ve-4-2-1-budget-header.html