Thread: SR20VE 4-2-1 "budget" header

Will it clear A/C?

I know this will crush the SSAC in WHP. The secondaries on the SSAC are tiny as hell. I think this is will be a killer deal, now I can't wait for my tax return.

The seattle area just got hit with a snow storm, give him some time to dyno test and if anyone in the NW has an SSAC to let him borrow im sure it would be appreciated.

So yea I have been "absent" for a bout 2 years not from both the sr20 forums but i'm back.

I do currently make 2 4-1 headers and any custom one you may like, the problem for most people ofcourse is the price. On a stockish setup or a DE with boltons this header should actually do very well against everything else out there including my own other ASP headers. On a built setup this header may suck on something making over 200whp or on a 2.2-2.3L motor and so on.

Its very hard to build something in this price range period. I DO NOT plan on making this is Stainless because that will bump the price up probobly $250-300. This header is TIG welded in several spots because i'm out of Wire for my MIG. I do plan on Mig welding these in most spots to save time which is a way to make these cheaper.

I am trying to make some better formed collectors to keep the cost down but bring performance up a bit. I can offer full merge collectors for another $150 plus the cost of springs and tabs if you want it in a few pieces to slip together, your choice. With a header like this, the formed collectors will not kill performance on a typical 190-200whp setup. If you had some big cams like C6M, this header may kill your power over the "correct" header. The primary runner length is in the high 20's to low 30's I forget though and I would go measure but I dont have the header at home with me.

This will clear A/C as far as i know. I will try to double check and if anything I will modify it to clear A/C. This header will also clear the stock radiator fans.

It will have 1 O2 sensor bung in the back after the collector right behind the axle shaft.

This header is not a less quality header by any means. It is made of .083" (14ga) mild steel for durability and strength. This header does sit pretty tucked up against the motor and off the ground with great ground clearance. If you did bottom the car out on a speed bump, you probobly wont damage this thing. It will be rock solid. Another reason for this design is for the P10/P11 people because the cross memeber sits up higher against the motor so this header will be a great choice for them because of the excellent ground clearance and being so durable.

This header is easier to build with the full merge collectors but the parts cost is higher so that is your choice if you would prefer full merge vs formed.

I am not worried about beating the SSAC as that header does not have a great tuned primary length and the runners are paired incorrectly as most 4-2-1 headers are. the pipe sizes are also all wrong, AND its a cheap Chinese piece that will crack over time. My headers you do not have to port match the flange or make sure the secondary's line up.

Group buy is possible and I actually prefer that because its easier for me to build a lot of these at once, rather than one at a time. I have the price this low already but I can work something depending on how many people are interested.

If there are 10 people interested I can do $450 each. if a lot more, I may be able to do a little better but i'm not sure.

tax time im getting one for sure, this is a nice header to me

I do have a B14 SE-R to dyno against. I'm gonna try to get ahold of Dan and Ric and see if i can dyno against the Fuji and or Gen 6 for sure.

Just remember, i'm trying to keep this affordable. I can make this header as nice as you want if you want to pay for it, but a full blown 304SS with full merge will probobly be in the $1300-1400 range easy but probobly wont make much, if any, more power than this will.

Believe it or not, when I get my P10 back together, i'll be rockin one of these myself!

Looks awesome! Time to start saving some cheddar.

Did you have to drop Xmember to install the header?

That is a great header for the money. Glad to see it has the runners paired correctly. I'm curious on the runner lengths and would like to see a dyno comparison of one with formed collectors and one with full merge. I do agree that on a bolt on motor (VE or DE) the formed collectors most likely will not hurt performance at all.

Would you be willing to make this header with different sizes and lengths? I am thinking of something like your 4-1 that you already build but in a 4-2-1 setup for better clearance? I have used a few of the Hytech headers and they are great for moderate setups for road racing and would like to try one on a "simple" 2.2L SR20VE setup. Just a thought.

-Ted

you might think i'm crazy but I know these cars too well because I built this complete header out of the car with out an SR20 powered car around to check it on. This is why i have not fully finished the header yet and also why the rear section is not bolted on at this time. I have to get the length done first.

This header does not stick off the front of the block very far, so you may not have to drop the X member to install. I'll try on a P10 and P11 as well as a B14. I Try to build everything so that you dont have to remove too much stuff from the car.

Ted, I Can build something similar, sort of like my custom 4-1 stepped headers, but It would have to be a one off. I can make a mild steel one for you to test and then make a 304 or 321 SS for you if it works out how you want it to. I can only guess on the cost at this point, but probobly no cheaper than my 4-1's...