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Thread: let talk the potential of standard sr20ve primaries and custom secondaies

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Posts: 11-20 of 23
2008-12-19 01:49:02
#11
Originally Posted by kiwi-japie
Have you had a look at the 20V design? I have made a copy of the 20V extractors to suit the N14/N15 engine bay as the original 20V wont allow you to use A/C. I have some pics of it if needed. You could of course use the same design on a RWD application. Extractor with the secondary pipe cost me $800 to make and is all mandrell bend.
Gerry


would love to see pics, can imagine lots of people interested if they make good power
2008-12-19 02:13:06
#12
Originally Posted by mrslappy
6-8" 1.875" stepped to 2" for 6" then 2-1 merge 2.25" choke 6-7 deg flare to 2.5 or 3".

-Ted


yeah i was thinking of going 47mm secondaries for 10-12inches (the standard is around 43mm-44mm right?), but i am liking the sound of 47mm for 6-8 and then 50mm for another 6, then into the merge.

i ask, do you recommend the 2.25 (57.15mm) over the 60mm, because of availability or performance? Have you found the 2.25 a better choke than the 2.36?

also it sounds like you have run this set up before? good results?
2008-12-19 03:02:04
#13
Originally Posted by ca18
yes this is exactly what i mean

what length did you go with on the secondaries? also what size collector?

their are a few reasons why i want to use standard primaries and custom secondaries;

1. it will be going into a rwd, so cheep ssac, fugi or even turbofreak headers are not an option. I have to have custom secondaries no matter what.


If it's RWD why not get a RWD SR20DE header? port or slot the flange to get it to line up?
2008-12-19 03:19:24
#14
Originally Posted by BlueRB240
If it's RWD why not get a RWD SR20DE header? port or slot the flange to get it to line up?


because i think that a standard sr20ve primary with custom secondaries will perform better Than a de rwd manifold matched ported.

For those that have taken their ve manifold off, and if you take the crappy covers off, you clearly see that the secondaries are crap! Not even mandrel bent, and overall pretty crap/cheap design. However the primaries reasonable. This is also backed up a little by the fugi argument.
2008-12-19 04:17:42
#15
Originally Posted by ca18
yeah i was thinking of going 47mm secondaries for 10-12inches (the standard is around 43mm-44mm right?), but i am liking the sound of 47mm for 6-8 and then 50mm for another 6, then into the merge.

i ask, do you recommend the 2.25 (57.15mm) over the 60mm, because of availability or performance? Have you found the 2.25 a better choke than the 2.36?

also it sounds like you have run this set up before? good results?


I'm just going off of the numbers that should work. This is based off of what actually does work on the car. The inside of the manifold outlet should be cleaned up as well, the transition on some of them is somewhat rough. After the merge you need to step up the pipe size atleast 1/8". The step to 2" is important because a 1.875" 2-1 collector is slightly restrictive for the power these motors make. The 2.25" choke should make more power than a larger one because of the alternating pulses going through the collector. It could probably be a 2.125" if you shortened the secondary pipes but I have not dyno'd that setup before.

-Ted
2008-12-19 04:38:36
#16
Originally Posted by mrslappy
I'm just going off of the numbers that should work. This is based off of what actually does work on the car. The inside of the manifold outlet should be cleaned up as well, the transition on some of them is somewhat rough. After the merge you need to step up the pipe size atleast 1/8". The step to 2" is important because a 1.875" 2-1 collector is slightly restrictive for the power these motors make. The 2.25" choke should make more power than a larger one because of the alternating pulses going through the collector. It could probably be a 2.125" if you shortened the secondary pipes but I have not dyno'd that setup before.

-Ted


yeah i plan on cleaning the outlet and opening it up a little basically to 1.8, then after the bends are done step up the pipe to 2 inch.

after the collector and long transition to the 3 inch i might cheap out and run a non mandrel bent 3 inch with no cat or mufflers. I might pony up the $$$ and run a 3 inch mandrel (either way i doubt i will run a muffler), but if i decide to cheap out anywhere this will be where.
2008-12-19 05:08:56
#17
When you open up the manifold outlet, make sure you radius it very well, the transition from the manifold into the secondary pipe is very critical for making power.

-Ted
2008-12-19 05:24:42
#18
........
Originally Posted by ca18
because i think that a standard sr20ve primary with custom secondaries will perform better Than a de rwd manifold matched ported.

For those that have taken their ve manifold off, and if you take the crappy covers off, you clearly see that the secondaries are crap! Not even mandrel bent, and overall pretty crap/cheap design. However the primaries reasonable. This is also backed up a little by the fugi argument.


What about the motor mount? I'm sure the stock is going to come down right where the mount is suppose to go?
2008-12-19 05:33:34
#19
Originally Posted by BlueRB240
What about the motor mount? I'm sure the stock is going to come down right where the mount is suppose to go?


That is a good point, I personally didnt even think about that. I was thinking of this from a FWD stand point, not RWD. It may not fit on RWD.

-Ted
2008-12-19 05:37:37
#20
Originally Posted by BlueRB240
What about the motor mount? I'm sure the stock is going to come down right where the mount is suppose to go?


yeah still have to mock it up, but i think it might clear. Its not going into a s chasis, but yeah it is a concern. If it does become a problem i will have to go de header port matched
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