Thread: VE NOS Set-ups?

direct port is one fogger per cylinder. Means instead of one being placed on the intake pipe, you usually drill and tap the manifold runners with one nozzle per cylinder. This makes sure that each cylinder is getting the same amount of nitrous and fuel and each cylinder is making the same additional power.

cuz in a normal nitrous setup usually your cylinders closest to the throttle body will get the most nitrous and fuel if using a wet shot. This can lead to imbalance of power amongst the cylinders. This is why when someone usually melts a piston or detonates during nitrous or puts a hole in the valves its usually always on the #4 or 3 or both.

My brother was running a 75 shot wet shot on his svt focus. Ran great until he misshifted with the throttle to the floor pounding on the rev limiter. On those it cuts both the fuel and spark so the nitrous is triggerd by wide open throttle so a crap load of nitrous was spraying into the motor with no fuel by the injectors and no spark then all of a sudden the spark comes back and bam, Put a nice pea size hole in the intake valve on the #4, and burnt the #3 intake valve to a crisp. No damage to the pistons at all though just the valves.

Had to have the head rebuilt. Thats one thing you dont do when you run nitrous is miss a gear with the nitrous still spraying. Not a good thing at all.

^^ hectic. Big price to pay for a mis-shift!

So those of you who are familiar with nos, what are the advantages of wet shot over dry shot?

With a dry shot, if I go direct port then by using the same lenth of tubing I can still be assured that each cylinder is getting the same amount of nos, and just adjust for fueling with the normal 370cc injectors.

I've heard wet shots are complicated cause of keeping the bottle temperature exact etc etc.

(ps: I like this kit: The nozzles go in the place of your injectors, and then your injectors plug into the back of these nozzles... Nice.
Nitrous Oxide Direct port kit)

A wet shot is just much easier to tune for. You basicly set the jets to the recommended and dyno proven jets and go from there. Their jet specs are usually very well set as far as a proper a/f ratio goes. A dry shot you can only go soo far on it.

A direct port will ensure that each cylinder is getting the same amount of fuel to it. Bottle temp is very important. Put it this way i installed that nitrous kit when my brother was visiting here in AZ when it was 85-90deg out in the evenings and hotter during the day, but we only sprayed the car in the evening. No bottle blanket on the setup either. The car run like a mad monkey. It would spin the 18" heavy wheels all the way through 2nd gear and slightly in 3rd. He destroyed srt'4's like they were nothing. Even crept away from a stage 2 srt. Then when he went back to missouri where it was in the 40s and 50's he was like it doesnt seem to be running near as strong. Then he would feel the outside of the bottle and it was almost iced up it was soo cold. You have to keep the bottle warm for the nitrous to flow properly and make the most power. Its that big of a difference. Cuz once he got the blanket he said it felt just like it did in AZ but better because he still had the 40 deg outside temps. So thats the difference right there.

Okay. So it seems a progressive direct port wet shot with all the bells and whistles like remote bottle opener, blanket etc is the way to go. Not exactly cheap anhymore.

Don't forget to get a window switch, very helpful. I had it to engage the nitrous at 4500rpm and shut of at 7200rpm. Just great for ease of mind. I had a msd 8969, which is now being used to activate my VVL