Thread: Thoughts on a full race motor setup

Huh? I'm a bit confused.. (sorry I don't post often and don't follow the threads so much)..

But this doesn't look exactly like the other one..




Are they supposed to be the same, just one has a plenum and the other doesn't? One has ITB and the other doesn't from what I can see..

Ted's message reminds me of a fellow machinist/engine builder.

He was always talking about the mustang guys that came into his shop. He would tell them:

"i can build you a 500whp mustang for $5k, $8k or $10k, what do you want"

They would be baffled as to why a motor could cost 2x and make the same amount of power. The answer was always the quality of parts for the reliability at a given HP level.

I built my motor with a gtir crank, carrillo rods and a whole bunch of other things you don't need for a 200+ whp car. But I have some other big plans and an overbuilt buffer is just how i like it

Donttazmebro, I hope you are going to be spraying 160 shot of NOS on that thing or something like that. It will be impressive if that is your plans.

I will be spraying NOS on my car direct port 160 shot. I have a 15 Lb NOS bottle ready to go already mounted in the trunk from back in the day. I kinda over built my motor also. I got the Tomei Crank, JWT made Crower Rods that fit both DE and GTIR bearings, and forged pistons that have been ceramic coated and molybdenum coated on the sides. The rods bearings are GTIR and have been molybdenum coated.

Is there any where we can Find out more info on JUN's car. I'd like to know the details now that its been mentioned how incredibly quick it is

hey guys can we keep on topic?

I would hate for a thread with so much info to be derailed. We are talking about engine building

I vote we clean up any off topic stuff and make it a Sticky.

Mike

Lets keep this thread clean gang.

Any callouts can be made here

http://www.sr20-forum.com/sr20-national-convention/12893-drag-strip-callouts.html#post168068

I was wondering who and how many of you have headwork done on your motors? I have been searching to see how many members have gotten headwork done, how much, and what the results have been. I do see a lot of port matching done on the intake side but not much else. I have not even came across anyone with a solid valve job being done.

Does anyone have any SOLID information on their headwork and what was done? Browsing through the forum (including SR20 Forum) i find a lot of talk about getting work done but that is it. Headwork is always a solid performance gain so i'm surprised that no one has shown solid positive gains.

-Ted

The head we are using for the 2.2L build which btw is going down the crapper cuz the sleeves were obviously installed poorly by the machine shop (long story), has been mildy ported and polished, nothing major but also port matched to the intake and the intake mani has also been ported and polished nicely. The head has bc dual valve springs and titanium retainters. No work done to the valves or seats though. Although for the very short time it was running the car definetly moved. With both me and my buddy in the car doing tuning it would spin a decent set of 205 50's all the way through 2nd gear starting even before it would hit vvl at 4900 rpms with a set of franklin stage 3's set to +2.5, -2.5. This is in a just a mild weight reduction b14 still using power steering. Only thing is no back seat, spare tire, or A/c stuff in the bay or behind the dash.

Neways i hate to say it but we are going to have to go after the machine shop for not installing the sleeves properly. Im sure the sleeves sunk down after torquing the head. Again all new parts used including the top of the line mazworx full grommet headgasket, new headbolts, torqued to fsm using top of the line torque wrench and tools. Needless to say its getting coolant in all 4 cylinders #1 being the worst. This poked in shortly after starting breakin period where it was all easy driven miles but would start to get hot after about 15 minutes of driving. Then following breakin after changing the wp pulley back to the stock size one, another brand new t-stat and bleeding the system. it would still do it.

this really blows but ill keep you guys updated. Either way the short time we got to get on it after breakin was done, the car moved and i would say pulled harder than my full bolt on ve in my 2080 lb b13. The car was definetly making power even though it was putting coolant into the cylinders which was making it really hard to tune being it wanted to ping all the freakin time. Anyways sorry if i sound a little pissed but thats cuz i am, haha

Ashtonsser,

Did you have your local machine shop install the sleeves? or did you send the block out? When machining the block down for the sleeve installation, it is VERY critical that the cylinder block and the sleeve both have the same taper on them. A lot of sleeves are not tapered and they are stepped and that CAN be ok but depends on HOW it is done. I do have plenty of local shops by me that can sleeve the block but I choose to send it out to the machine shop that has done these over and over. Sure it costs more right off the first time, but if you ever have to pull the motor apart just once for something that breaks or a sleeve that slips, or anything else that is not right, it would have been cheaper to just do it the right way the first time.

I am sorry about your engine problem. It does sound like you either slipped a sleeve or the head gasket is not sealing properly. Which headbolts/studs are you using?

If you are using ARP's did you have the stud machined down to match the block matting surface, or did you have the block threads holes machined for the correct setting from the ARP stud?

Also, what pistons are you using? what are the piston ring gaps that you set and also what is your piston to wall clearance? Did the coolant system ever pressurize?

I have had to deal with a few sleeve issues here and there including my own racecar block cracking a few sleeves here and there from blowing a headgasket (hydrolock)

-Ted