Thread: Thoughts on a full race motor setup

thats what im saying, i have to do the valves anyways being i floated 2 of mine from a mishift. Ive got a weak 4th cylinder sometimes when the valve gets out of place. Then for the most part it reseats itself. i think i bent one or two of them slightly. So thats why im doing the valves so i figured why not go oversize since its easy enough for my machinist to do here and doesnt require bigger seats. Ill also do the port work on the exhaust side as well and maybe clean up the intake side a bit too. Then the head will be fully ready for a t3t04 at 10psi and it should make 300whp easily with no real struggle or excessive heat if any real heat at all. Should make tons of power throught the powerband. And stupid me is putting an 8k rev limit on there this time around.

Only reason i didnt put a limiter on with this setup was i thought i would have the n1 cams in there by now but oh well. So yeah should make for a very nice responsive powerband. hell yeah and be gentle on the motor.

i thought you had a N/A 2.2L

did you bend valves on that?

yeah its the old sayng, why do head work when you can achieve the same results with a couple more psi. tbh when talking about max horsepower this statement is very true. However there are many benefits in power band, temp build up, less cyl pressure etc with a good port and polish job.

In saying that gone are the days where a port and polish will reveal HUGE gain like in the past. Back in the day the old heads had very poor casting and manufacturing process, so once upon a time there was huuuge gains to be had from major head work, so much so that it became a fine art, with many people specialising in it. Modern day heads are cast much better from factory making it harder to improve upon



tbh if i was going to replace the valves in my head, which i have debated many times and if the friggen aus dollar wasn't soo low i probably would get a set, these are what i would buy

Supertech Racing Valves SR20VE

for going turbo and replacing the valves anyway you might as well go +2 on the ex and +1 on the intake

yeah the supertechs are nice but i think with the exhaust ones you have to use bigger seats. From what ive read anything over 1mm oversize requires different seats. Ill be using the XVT valves seen here:

eBay Motors: XVT STAINLESS STEEL VALVES NISSAN SR20VE SR20 +1MM (item 260323050437 end time Dec-07-08 08:11:24 PST)

They seem to be decent quality and they are 1mm oversize on both which will work well with the stock seats. Ill have them do a 3 angle valve job and ill also see if he has done any port work before if not ill do it myself.

No thats my buddies 2.2L which is up and running but just waiting on a rear motor mount bracket as his got misplaced somehow. Sucks. Put it started right up i just need to figure out an idle issue with it and thats about it.

Neways no mine is the one i floated the valves on one cylinder. But it still runs strong topend, doesnt really affect high rpm's just below 3k or so. But yeah thats why the head is coming off and doing the head work. If it wasnt messed up i would just turbo it the way it is.

No one here at the shop believes that the VE head flows over 230cfm. I showed them Daxx's flow bench results and he said BS. I told him stock K series motors do just under 300cfm stock and they all told me the VE isn't a K series lol.

A fully worked 2jz head flows around 240cfm! But it still made 917whp tonight

coheed, i just recently tuned a rsx with a gt30r on it, .63 turbine, stock motor otherwise. 438whp, 323tq at 1 bar. not reving past 8000rpms. this power is mostly obtained because of the higher flowing cylinder head and yes, the vtc gear.

turbochargers create air flow and they flow at diffrent rates at different pressure ratios. you must also remember that pressure is only restriction to flow. when port your cylinder head in a turbo build u are gaining power in ways more than just allowing more air to flow into the motor.

as for the larger valves on stock seats... mot all ve heads are equal. some sr16ve heads actually have 28mm exhaust valves. some ve heads have the same exhaust valve seat as the det and will support a 31mm valve if the valve job is done correctly. going 1mm over on the stock intake seats is not good because u can not get a full valve grind on the top half of the seat through the transition to the combustion chamber. this is a situation where .5mm over sitting a little higher up on the seat will be your best gain.

coheed, how much psi are you running in you current setup? is there a reason you are using the .63 housing?

-Ted

great thread here, and great info mrslappy

as you have had a bit of experience with the ve heads, i wonder if you could post the differences between them and what years have the attributes, as i did not know that some 16ve heads had 28mm valves

Valve sizes on VE heads that I have seen. I have seen many VE heads but I have not checked that many of them.

SR20VE and SR16VE In 34mm and Ex 29mm

SR16VE N1 33.6mm and Ex 29mm

I got 34mm and 29mm on my sr16ve head. My sr20VE head was the same. I am using the .63 housing because I wanted quicker spool. I didn't expect to get reversion on the stock cams with this turbo, to be honest it was the last thing I expected.

The K20 was obviously using a long runner manifold, not a log style like I am. I am expecting a lot of power to free up with the new manifold going on. I may even try a bigger turbo, because I can put down about 500whp on the 70cc injectors uncorrected, which is around 580 corrected. If I had a bigger turbo I could actually make use of the VE head.

That's weird that you are making that power on a stock motor, obviously not pump gas. The most my friend made on his k20 without the Kpro seeing knock was 280whp on 6psi. I believe you can make 500whp on the K motor, but you will need a lot better fuel than I am using. If I were on Q16 I would have made a lot more power.