Thread: Thoughts on a full race motor setup

shoot franklin an email and he will make you up a set. Just cause they are not on the website doesn't mean he wont make them. Also with the u.s. vs kiwi exchange rate you should get quite a deal. you wont find anything near the price of franklins in the u.s. due to the saving from the exhange rate. I know cause i am deal with u.s. and kiwi currency.

tbh i dont think 225-230 whp from a 2l ve is the feat everyone makes it out to be.

realtime ecu
good intake
good headers
16ve pistons
20v/n1 cams, or possibly the new kelfords
e85 as a must and you should be close



damn that is a very short runner, looks to be about 6-6.5 inches including te bell mouth? Did you loose much down low? what about its effects on torque? Interested to see how it went

JWT considered making cams they have seen kelfords and all the stock cams. What they found was there wasn't an easy way to make a cam that would make more peak power than N1's without the need for springs and other work.

The thing you forget about both b and k series is that the cams are made for their stroke and most of the differences in displacement are first bore second very minimal stroke differences. The off the shelf cams for these cars are already optimized for their design.

Oh and the K series has a super high deck that helps it maintain excellent RS ratio even when you put a 100mm crank.

If you spend enough time with the SR series motors you will see a few things
1. They are made to be boosted
2. Because there is a small aftermarket everything is expensive when you want to go past 200whp
3. You'll never be able to compete with the ultimate power of a K series
4. They are made to be boosted

ca18 bluebird That intake manifold is only 7.5 inches to bellmouth. You have to add the horns back in. I just went for a large plenum which I felt would work better.

The WHP was 216 WHP & 160LB Ft Torque.

I wonder what the exchange rate is now because last I checked a set of Franklin cams costed like $700 US and the springs and retainers cost $500.

yes its a bit different from a few months ago

its 65us is around 1 aud,

and 1us is around 55 nz

a few months ago 1aud was around 96us, so with shipping and all $700us landed would be about right

now you would be looking under $500

its a bitch for me cause there a few things i wanna buy from the states, but some things i am going to give it a miss and others i am debating

also 216whp is damn good (see 225-230 isnt that far off), just goes to show the importance of he intake, what other mods where done to the car if you dont mind me asking?

SR20VE 20V motor ( 11 to 1 compression ) Slight advantage
N1 cams
Cam gears set at +4 in, -4 ex
Custom Intake Manifold
4 into 1 header, 32in long with 2.5 collector
3 inche xhaust
Fidanza flywheel
JWT Clutch
JWT ECU
Maxima 95-99 MAF
Nismo FPR
G Spec pully.

Electric Water Pump ( Not Using it on the 2.3L Motor )

There are thing that could have been done to make more HP but at the cost of dyno time I was not willing and I was very happy with what I got.

Proven by Charles Dundan. His 4 into 1 header would make more top end HP than mine and I think he made 5 WHP more with his header as he made a header like mine to test. The header like mine made more mid range torque and that is what I was looking for. I went for a compromize between the longer header ( making more torque ) and the shorter intake manifold ( making more WHP up top ). I was trying to see if they would work better together and I think they did.

As far as the 2.3L motor goes I will be running a Charles Dundan 4 into 1 stepped header 26 inches long to 2.38 Burns collector vs my header because torque is not going to be a major concern with the larger Tomei crank in the 2.3L motor. So my header gets the axe.

The short runner intake manifold will stay because getting as much WHP will be the ultimate goal now.

For the 2.3L motor I will be using a Calum Realtime ECU. There will be no need to rev the motor past 8500 RPMS and there will be no significant change in fuel and timing from 8000 RPMs to 8500 RPMs.

At the end of the day when it comes to cams I am hoping the test that donttazmebro and Charles Dundon will be doing with the Kelford 184c will work out on a 2.2L motor as it will favor me.

Once I've completely dyno'd the FS4's in my car (high CR, short runner ITB setup) and if I'm not getting the numbers I'm aiming for, then I'm getting some custom cams made locally. The local shops here have VE cam billets. Probalby going to go with some of the local touring car cam specs for the highlobe. These are about 300deg+ with just over 13mm lift.

where are you located?

Jo'burg, South Africa

Can someone tell me where I could get 6-8 sets of VE billets and what would the price be.

There are 3 problems with the VE head in running a cam over 12.7mm lift. more so above 13.0mm lift. I have 2 cams that are made with 13.26mm lift and 13.97mm lift. there is modification needed to several parts to get this to work in the head and it is no where near drop in. The highest amount of lift you can go for a drop in cam is 12.7mm IN and 12.46mm EX roughly. that is where the cam lobe will contact the rocker arm.

do you have Cam BILLETS or Cast cam blanks? 2 different things.

as far as the intake manifold goes and what size ITB's to run, you need a manometer to measure the Pressure drop across the intake plenum and runners to determine the optimal size. I do know what is needed for a 2.0L motor and larger for length and size but i have spend a lot of time on the dyno and doing calculations to come up with such.

the biggest power gains that I have seen with these motors is with the header design, the collector megaphone used and also the quality of the header built and they way it is built. the other aspect is tuning. Someone mentioned how the VE's like a lot of timing.... If you are adding a lot of ignition timing to gain power, then you are not running a very efficient setup. the more ignition timing needed means that you are not achieving a high cylinder fill because the more air/fuel in the cylinder at a higher pressure means that the A/F burns at a faster rate. If you have a very efficient setup with the proper cam timing and proper header you will be running much less ignition timing. If you are running 34-38 deg timing at 7-8000rpm like some people have stated then you are not making anywhere near what your motor should be making if you had the proper header.... N1 cams set at the "proper" cam specs and a tuned length header ( less than 30" with megaphone/reverse cone) will want less than 30 deg timing to make the most power....