Thread: Cam Swtich over points on the VE...

First just font the smoothest switch point, then adjust. That lean dip and adjustment some timing. Vvl is about invisible in all my vvl set ups and variations and graphs..

And that's switching them together at the same time. To me its a waste of time / money to switch them independently .. my .02

Basicly just that man, richen it up maybe even a bit richer than after the switch and start adding timing in until you gain as much as you can of the power back without getting any pinging/detonation. Ive seen huge dips where there was literally 15-20whp dips from the vvl switchpoint. Just tuning it out you can bring that to a 4-5whp dip pretty easy. From there its just a matter of raising it to where there is no dip at all.

Like cory said, it just takes messing with it for the most part. Its nice having it slightly lower than needed just because the noise factor when it hits is a little more intense but in all reality a 4-5whp drop at the switchpoint is not gonna be that noticable while driving. Now 15-20whp loss. Yeah you will feel like it just boggs for a second then pics back up.

So the way to go would be find the best spot to engage and after that tune the gas map to richen up a lil bit before that point?

Another question, does N1 cams like more timing than regular SR20VE cams?

Usually your able to pull timing up top w n1s and make more power. But yeah generally you will end up needing less timing to make better power w the larger cams.

The more efficiently the motor is flowing the less timing it will need. So a nice thing to know when your dyno testing things to k ow what's making the engine happier

Same rule applies with other flow mods. After all cams are technically a flow mod, they let more air in

Exactly that's what I mean by when making the motor more efficient ...

The way i did it was add timing until the car started to lose power up top and then back it back down till it came back. Also tried lower timing but it was worse also.

Do the same with the vvl activation point along with correcting fuel where needed.

Its easiest to do if you do a pull to say 6k with no cam switch, then a pull with your cam switch and overlay them. Wherever the graph starts to even back out is where you want to have your cam switch point. I would do this after trying to tune the cam switch point out though again because you can get rid of a lot of the dip with just tuning. Then do the runs with and without and overlay and move your cam switch point, then make any last corrections you need where your cam switch point was.