Thread: FWD VE - RWD VET for s-chassis

So right now I'm caught in 2 minds. Go sr20vet or go rb25det in my s13.

Some ppl are discouraging me from the rb25det, saying it takes a lot of money to get it in the s-chassis first of, and secondly they reckon a SR will make 400hp cheaper than the RB. (if you have comments on this - feel free)

Now lets get down to the rwd vet. If I do this I'll go standalone, so the distributor won't be an issue. I also have a bellhousing that will mate the fwd sr to a rwd tranny.

My concern is the water pipe routings. Does anyone know if the RWD sr20det piping will bolt on to a fwd sr motor? Also, are all the accessories in the right place of the fwd? or should I rather source all RWD alternator, p/s pump, etc?

thanks.

VET is newer. Other than that I'd bore out a CA20 and take it back to the root of the matter. YMMV.

Doctor G the RB25 with the stock turbo,fmic,exhaust and 12psi will get you 276-300hp to the wheels. Getting more from that point $$$$. Why not use the RWD DET block and do a head swap? for the VE+T you plan on doing. I plan on doing that when I'm ready do to do my swap.

Thanks for the input.

I can get a complete RWD sr20det motor, excl head and intake. But what advangtage does getting the RWD block have over the FWD? Cause ultimately the pistons will be swapped out anyways. I have a 8cw crank for the FWD motor. Will just need to source DET rods or better.

To get a VE head - I'm going to have to buy a complete motor. So I'm trying to see if it makes sense to use as much of that motor as possible. Or is it too much modification? My main concern is the water pipes and accessories.

I don't want to have to custom make everything, but if rwd stuff can bolt on to the fwd block, I will just source them seperately and use the FWD block, instead of getting the complete rwd de setup.

Ok i have had experiences with both

i am currently doing a rwd vet conversion

FORGET BOLTING THE FWD BLOCK INTO THE S CHASSIS!

and buy s chasis if i assume you mean either s13. s14, s15 silvia

rb25 is not as hard as you might think, but depending on where you come from they can be expensive, however down here they are as cheap as a sr20det....however the sr is a more common conversion and there are reasons for this.

ok for the rb25 you will need:

ceffy front k frame
custom shortened tailshaft and gearbox mount (from memory if you run the rb20 geaqrbox everything all lines up, but could be wrong, plus the rb25 box is stronger)

now you will need to either get a front facing plenum, or raise the bonnet for it to fit

then obviously all wiring computer and crap like that

why i would do this conversion:

cause you get a strong gearbox, and fairly strong motor with a little more displacement to spool big turbos.

why i wouldn't do the conversion:

the weight of the rb25 is more, so this will affect you handling, not only that the aded weight is further over you front wheels making the car like a lead tipped arrow and more prone to understeer. Also that extra weight in the front will be nastly on you front suspension, most people i know with the conversion go through front coilovers pretty quick

Now to the vet:

yes i had to buy the whole motor too, but toughen up princess this is what you have to do with conversion like this, you can get rwd sr20 blocks cheap and as you said you are building it, so why not start with something simpler and easier?

you will need to either run 20v soliniod or remote mount yours, you will also need a custom plenum, and will either need to raise the bonnet a bit or lower the engine 15mm

why i would do this conversion:

reliable revs
low cams to spool a turbo q2uicker and not loose bottem end torque and high cams to let it fly up top
although the head is a little heavier, its still only a few kg's and its at the back of the engine bay so wont make any difference to handling
the head flow more than most dets with head work in standard form (well at least on the intake)

You can buy VE heads on their own. You just have to search. Making a VE+T or sourcing an RB25 are both tempting ideas. I think the VE+T might be easier but don't quote me on that. If you've already got the bell housing needed to mate the FWD block to the RWD tranny then you might as well use it. It'll make the swap go smoother (over the RB) since you already have parts. If it were me, I'd get a DE block, 90mm pistons (9.5), VE head, N1 cams and a GT30R. Would make for a quick ride. Keep us posted as to the decision.

^^^ about even i reckon

the beauty of the rb25 is you dont have to bother building it, but then again i suppose if you have a good condition rwd det bottom end you dont have to build either

phorb13 - why such high CR? My mate who's turbo'd a few ve's and de's reckons I should go T61 on this boy... He knows a few AR and trim combinations that has him at full boost by 3000rpm already...

ca18 bluebird - yeah I'm aware of the weight issues with the rb, but if i did it I would use custom mounts that has the motor sitting as far back and very low as possible.

As for the VE/t why does it need to be mounted lower? (I'm using a s13 hatch btw). I already have the remote mounted selenoids taken care of.

I can get a RWD det with new, coated cast pistons for a good price. The thing that's going to make the ve't build expensive for me is the forged bottom end. (our exchange rate sucks against the us dollar. 11:1!!) Can I get away without going forged? I'm guessing no.

So VET = buying 2 motors, rebuilding one with forged bottom end. A good deal of new parts, cams etc. And some custom fabrication (manifolds etc)

RB25DET can be had for the same price as one of the motors above. But then it's expensive engine mountings, new gearbox, some custom fabrication and it will be a bit more unfamiliar to me.

The RB swap will be a lot easier because it's been done over and over again. RWD VET hasn't so that will be harder.

How much power are you looking to make? A guy I know makes around 467hp at the wheels with his VE+T. Stock bottom end (DET) revs to 9k on it.