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Thread: Is there life after 7200RPM?

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Posts: 1-10 of 13
2008-10-24 04:24:13
#1
Is there life after 7200RPM?
Went driving with a friend of mine that had never seen a car being dynoed before. And for the cost of JD$1200 I decided it wasn't a bad spend. Ended up with my figures being 174whp and 136lbftqbut noticed that after 7200 the hp started to fall which made me realize that what was said on the forum that power isn't made past 7200 with SR20VE cams. My question is what result would I then get with the N1? Will it still fall off further up in the powerband or will it level off? My mods are:
SR20 VE motor
Calum ECU basic
SSAC 2.5 header
3" exhaust mandrel bends
Free flow filter
N60 Maf

N.B. Andreas your input will be greatly appreciated even though I wouldn't have gotton here without you. Still trying to link you about the pop charger.
2008-10-24 05:08:16
#2
with the N1 cams in my car i have it as high as 9300 and it pulled all the way there.
2008-10-24 06:16:36
#3
Thor, you have come from the point of not making that much HP to making 174 WHP.

We said the goal was to make 175-180 WHP with the stock cams and that is where we are at.

So now it is time for some N1 cams. The goal is to now make 195-200 WHP. The N1 cams will make peak HP at 7800-8000 RPMs with your setup. You will be able to rev the car out to 8500 RPMs on stock spring and retainers with no problems. I recomend springs and retainers but like I said, you will be ok. If you get springs and retainers going to 9000 RPMs will be no problem and setting up some cam gears to a setting like +5,-5 or as on my car +4,-4 will be no problem on an over rev as these settings get the piston to valve clearance a little tight. Please aslo note that you should pick up 2-3 more WHP from valve springs and retainers at the higher end of the RPM scale.

So, by the time you get some N1s and Greg V VE pulleys you should be well within your goal of 195-200 WHP. When your car gets up to this level trust me when I say it make the stock cams feel very slow.

Any thing more than 195-200 WHP, will need a new aproach like change of header to a 4 into 1 header and we can have a custom intake manifold made with shorter runnes, but lets not get ahead of ourself.

Great job my friend
2008-10-24 14:38:08
#4
Btw alittle off topic. When are you gonna make that tool to change the springs and retainers miko?
2008-10-24 14:49:08
#5
hey miko, so springs/retainers, n1 cams is nice set-up in sr20ve head for 9k redline, but what would need to be done to 20ve block to SAFELY spin that high ?? balance/blueprint, lightened crank, rods/pistons ??? enlighten me if u don't mind
2008-10-24 14:50:08
#6
Originally Posted by SUNNYboi
Btw alittle off topic. When are you gonna make that tool to change the springs and retainers miko?



At then end of the year. Its not high on the list as I only get about 3 of these jobs valve spring and retaner jobs a year. The other one got lost in the transition period.
2008-10-24 14:54:55
#7
Originally Posted by RidinOnRails
hey miko, so springs/retainers, n1 cams is nice set-up in sr20ve head for 9k redline, but what would need to be done to 20ve block to SAFELY spin that high ?? balance/blueprint, lightened crank, rods/pistons ??? enlighten me if u don't mind



Seems to me that there are alot of guys doing so already. So more so valve springs and retainers are your best bet.

I dont like reving the older 4 CWC SR20VE motors that high but thate my opinion. There were not designed like that and because of the crank I find you will get premature bearing failure.

Most of you guys drive these things everyday so you take the risk. I do feel that on the ocassion that you race going up there is not a big deal.

My car is 8 counterweight and I still keep it below 8500 RPMs.
2008-10-24 15:28:47
#8
heres a graph of sr20ve vs n1 cams (back to back with minimal changes in tuning).
Ignore the dip between 5000 and 6000.

Note also my top end is being strangled by a restrictive exhaust (and maybe header), so with yours it will likely stay flat to ~8500rpm.
you can see the big difference between 6000 and redline with the n1's, do it!

2008-10-24 16:06:40
#9
yeah a good setup on the ve from what ive read and seen is n1 cams, s&r's if you have the money but not a necessity unless going over 8500rpms, gregV pullies, Fidanza flywheel, good header and 3" exhaust, cam gears set to +2-2 or around that, the more adjustment you give them the sooner the power comes on but the power wont hold as well in the upper rpms. This setup will net you around 200whp all day long, rev out to 8500 or higher if you have the springs and be a very quick responsive motor. Cant go wrong with it really.

this is exactly how im doing my setup, with a calum basic ve/n1 program, e60 maf, and stock ve injectors. Then an n1 throttle body to top it off. I will later be working on a custom secondary for the ssac 2.5" header. but then again it might take a bit and it will be a 3" collector. If that fails then i will probably just purchase one of the freak headers from greg
2008-10-24 21:21:40
#10
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
yeah a good setup on the ve from what ive read and seen is n1 cams, s&r's if you have the money but not a necessity unless going over 8500rpms, gregV pullies, Fidanza flywheel, good header and 3" exhaust, cam gears set to +2-2 or around that, the more adjustment you give them the sooner the power comes on but the power wont hold as well in the upper rpms. This setup will net you around 200whp all day long, rev out to 8500 or higher if you have the springs and be a very quick responsive motor. Cant go wrong with it really.

this is exactly how im doing my setup, with a calum basic ve/n1 program, e60 maf, and stock ve injectors. Then an n1 throttle body to top it off. I will later be working on a custom secondary for the ssac 2.5" header. but then again it might take a bit and it will be a 3" collector. If that fails then i will probably just purchase one of the freak headers from greg


Damn that's my build right there lol
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