Thread: Couple of things concerning the VE

Well as alot of you know im going with a VE in my b13, a couple of things i have to ask

How much does the 4CW crank weigh, i have an 8cw crank i can weigh, just was curious on the difference of the weight from the two, im thinking 10lbs or so.

The VE has a fuel dampener, now which one is the fuel dampener, the one on the left or the one of the right if facing the front of the motor, im pretty sure its the one on the left but thats why im asking. Which would leave the thicker pipe the return line and the thinner pipe the feed.

Any other insights would be good as well

Im still stumped on what i should set the n1 cams to as far as deg, i know many have used the +5 -5 method, but then there are others that made awesome power just leaving the stock gears in. Then there are others that made more power with the cam gears deg for more overlap. so its kinda confusing, im not totally used to all this VE stuff but ive been doing alot of reading. So im getting there. Cant wait.

BTW this will be my setup.

SR20VE (at my house currently) Thanks Greg
n1 cams (still gotta find) very hard these days
Gspec crank and wp pullies,
Fidanza Flywheel and ACT extreem pp with 6 puck disk
3" short ram intake with velocity stack
N1 throttle body matched to the intake manifold.
SSAC 2.5" header running open dump for now until i have eitehr a custom 3" secondary made or just do a whole new 4-1 race header from either greg or custom made by a shop here.
Calum basic ecu running 333cc ve injectors and e60 maf

im hoping once dyno tuned to be around 195-200whp but thats why im curious as to what i should start the cams degreed at.

Let me know yoru suggestions

crank weight difference is about 8lbs.

yeah i figured it was probably close to 10lbs, close enough for me, haha. Any other suggestions

dampener is the one closest to crank pulley.

Cam gears not on +5,-5 basically redline under 8.5K go for +3,-2 or close to. Under 7.5K then you could go +5,-5 but this would be stupid on N1 cams!

You have to tune to these changes though you cant just change the settings.

Basically:
130 with poor midrange tuned at 0,0
+3-2 untuned 125wkw
Tune the +3,-2 and much more midrange and 132wkw
These settings also let the high cam come on 300rpm earlier.

i mean is it really gonna make that much more power, i understand moving the gears basicly makes a better midrange alowing power to come on sooner and kick the high lobe on sooner but there is a couple guys that have left them at 0 0 and are making well over 200whp with a really wide power band, maybe not as good as a midrange but a hell of a topend i mean thats more of what im after. I know that one guy did 199whp on a mustang dyno which is about 215whp on a dynojet with the cams at 0,0 and still had good midrange cuz he didnt kick the cams on till 5900. i can deal with that, i want to rev it out to about 8.5 no higher. So what do you think. If its not necessary id rather not do it.

Just like on my friends build, im almost sceptical to even tune the cam timing with the 2.2L 12:1 build. Id rather start 0,0 and see what we get and then maybe mess with it later down the road to see if it makes any difference.

Start at 0,0 and dyno a baseline. Don't know if you are going to do internals or not on your motor but your friend may benefit from straight up settings since his motor will have a notable increase in torque just from displacement alone. Supporting mods to increase intake velocity and exhaust flow for top end power hinge on a good 4-1 header with 3" exhaust (Freak Header or equivalent) and a well designed intake system to increase flow( Minimum short stack, intake port & polish or Cory's redesigned intake)You pretty much know this stuff anyway so if you are shooting for 8.5K redline on your motor do the 0,0 dyno and see where you're at. Just a thought...

Well 5-10wkw across the midrange and top end is alot on a NA car



Guess which one the cam gear run is Don't worry about the hp number that dosn't mean didly it still traps 100mph in car thats 80kgs heavier then a sentra (2500lbs no driver)

Yeah do a base run and tune at 0,0 then move the cam gears try somthing like +2,-2 tune to that and see if your happy.

Try to make the total power of your shifting area the highest if you want to go quick, like you can have 200whp but when you change gear and come back in at 5K and you have nothing there, even though it's not that drastic.

very true, thats what im thinking, ive heard positive things about the +2.5 -2.5 around that area seems to work really well, increasing both midrange and still keeping a great topend. Now yes on the build im doing for my buddy, we are already using a slightly ported intake manifold and head both on the intake side and exhaust side, the intake is port matched to the head, we will be using an n1 throttle body, same as mine will be using, port matched to the manifold, velocity stack short ram intake. Nice header with free flowing exhaust as possible. So it should do well.

Neways thanks again guys keep the inputs coming. Im still learning alot about the ve and where it makes its best power with what parts.

I figure if i can get my car to 200whp which should be fairly easy once dyno tuning is done it will have the supporting mods in a 2100 lb car or less on track i might be able to trap around 104-105mph and hit in the 12's on my slicks. Thats my goal. but im gonna take my time with this and just get everything set perfect before i go.

Turbofied What cam is in that motor?

N1's